Only overkill if the car in question will never see a track. Other than that, it's worth the expense if the car is going to see track time at least every other weekend.

 

Hmm. I'm going to have to look into exactly how that system is set up and works then. If it seems like something I can figure out myself and the parts are cheap enough, maybe I'll do it. But I'm certainly not about to throw an easy grand for something that probably doesn't make a huge difference either.

 

Here's a good site that has lots of info.

Technical Description - Dry Sump Systems

 

That honestly seems like it would be one of the best additions to my car, but it is ridiculously expensive. I wonder if there is a way to just reposition where the oil pump takes the oil from to the bottom of the pan basically right beside the drain plug. that way you dont run the risk of damaging it but it is still pretty far down there. Then in the oil pan, putting in a couple custom fit baffles, and basically a tight screen a decent way under the crank, too provide resistance to the oil from climbing up the pan around a corner, but still allowing it through as well.

 

A decent dry sump setup (assuming you can find a pan for your motor) will run upwards of 3k, I'm sorry, but there is no reason with your level of modification for you to spend that much on your motor. That money is better spent in many other places then a dry sump.

I know when I was pricing one for my racecar (and with my non "retail" pricing and cutting corners) it was 3400 for just the parts. We just did one in another local drag car, I can post some pics if you want to see what's all needed to make it fit in an 4th gen fbucket

 

Yea, I just looked at all the parts and priced it all out. That is just too much to even bother considering.
I was thinking however, the dry sump system is made to also keep the crank from smacking the oil, but the main purpose is to keep oil flow and pressure.
I was just looking through my Haynes manual about how the oil system is actually routed and everything. I came up with an idea that wouldnt be up to par with a dry sump system, but would be excessively better than stock still.
Basically, the oil pump sucks oil from the top of the oil pan in my engine. Im guessing that is so it doesnt suck up any contaminants that may get in there. Now if I could make 2 holes in the oil pan. 1 up and to the left of the drain plug, and one immediately to the left of the drain plug. I could redirect the piping from the top to stick out of the top hole that I made, then put a second fitting that can be connected and removed from that redirected pipe. The end of this second fitting would mount flush to the bottom hole I created. The redirected pipe would be welded to the oil pan, and connect to the original piping inside with a double wall slip fitting so the oil pan could still be easily removed and reassembled if needed but still keep pressure on the inside connection. Like I said, the second piece would be a screwed on fitting to the redirected pipe, and be welded to the oil pan at the bottom hole to suck in the oil. Also on the inside of the pan at that bottom hole would be a screen with very fine holes. Then use a magnetic drain plug, and that should keep any contaminants out of the system. This should allow the pump to suck up more oil, more of the time than it previously did. Add a couple wave breaks in the oil pan as well, and you should have a much more efficient oil system.

Ii kind of make things sound complicated, but this would actually be pretty simple to do. What do you guys think of the idea?

 

The issue I see is if the holes you're using ever come uncovered. You're sucking air causing cavitation in the pump which means your motor isn't getting oil.

If you want some inspiration, look into the Improved Racing baffle, that they make for the ls1 cars, its pretty neat and fairly easy to replicate

 

Thats very interesting and a great design. The only problem is it looks like the ls1 takes the oil from the bottom of the pan while my engine apparently takes it from the top. So i dont know if that baffle would work the same for me or not.

 

I may be one of the only people on the internet who will tell you that they aren't 100% sure of something but I find it hard to believe that the oil pickup in your motor is at the top, rather then the bottom. The pickup tube/screen HAS to be submerged otherwise the stock oil pump will cavitate, so I would be willing to bet that its deeper in the pan then you think.

Also, you may want to get the motor together and observe an actual drop in oil pressure before you into this too much. Again, I'm referring to an ls1 type car as this is what I have the most experience in, but guys weren't seeing a pressure drop until they were deep into thw 1.3 60ft range or well over a g of force when turning, you may ok

 

True, I might be seeing the problem a little more because I have yet to stiffen the suspension. The extra body roll right now is probably the culprit.
As for the pickup, maybe I was looking at the wrong thing, but in the manual, it certainly looked like it was up top. But Ill go through it again tomorrow, Ill post a picture of the page. Maybe you can tell me whats what, Im probably looking at the wrong thing. Wouldnt be the first time.