Sofie's Official Engine Rebuild Thread!
#271
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massey, her car isnt throttle by wire. i dont think any 3.8 or ls powered 4th gen had that, they should all be a cable. i know the ls2 gto is drive by wire though.
also, with the new battery, there hasnt been any issues. sometimes it takes an extra second to fire, but the cranking doesnt slow half way through the starting process as it used to. but the old battery isnt going to waste, im going to put it into my truck as i only need 600cca for it (and my current batt is at 450)
also, with the new battery, there hasnt been any issues. sometimes it takes an extra second to fire, but the cranking doesnt slow half way through the starting process as it used to. but the old battery isnt going to waste, im going to put it into my truck as i only need 600cca for it (and my current batt is at 450)
#272
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MicroKid, My Sarah is a 1999 3.8L and it is Throttle by wire. I have a Camaro book that says that all 98-02 3.8L engines were TBW. I cant say why her 2000 would be cable and not TBW. Either way nice job both of you on the engine.
Massey
Massey
#274
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All I know is that it was made in Canada. I've been thinking about investing in a Carfax report because I know nothing about this car's history other than her previous owner was dumber than dirt.
Do you have a pic of the tbw setup? I'm confused by all of it. I tried looking it up and didn't get anywhere.
Do you have a pic of the tbw setup? I'm confused by all of it. I tried looking it up and didn't get anywhere.
Last edited by DarlingReject; 08-21-2010 at 08:58 AM.
#275
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,407
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I think if you check the parts manual PDF from the sticky in the 4th gen main folder you will find the 2000 is suppose to be DBW. The only year in question is the 98s. If I remember right the the part manual calls for the throttle cable but I think I was able to find some 98 with DBW so their may be a mid year cutoff.
#277
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I just kept it the enamel. It seems to be holding up really well on the Bomber, so I figured it will hold up well in the insets. My plan for the future is to have them professionally done when I get her repainted. I plan on having the stripes painted on too. I want the light pink with just the slightest hint of pearl in it, so it'll only shimmer when it hits sunlight directly. But yeah, it took a lot of tape and time. Of course spraying it only took like 2 minutes total compared to the almost hour of masking. I started by taking the vinyls off, cleaning it, sanding it, then I used some white enamel. The original plan was to use enamel paints and mix the colors myself. But for whatever reason the new enamel I got wouldn't mix and it turned out streaky and looked awful. So that's when I got fed up, masked it, and sprayed.
#278
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It needs to be as clean as possible. I used rubbing alcohol and q-tips and let it dry for a few minutes. I used a custom made acrylic enamel spray paint for it from a local paint shop, Baps. Any enamel should be fine. While I was at Baps, I picked up 1/4" masking tape (that super thin stuff). It takes MANY layers of tape to create the lovely curves of the letters. After just masking the letters, I used newspaper and masked off practically the entire rear of the car (that paint oversprays like crazy). It look a long time to mask off and prep, but it's worth it and came out very clean. Any little imperfections I found I used one of those paint touch up pens from Advance Auto or Wal*Mart. It's possible to use an xacto knife or razor blade to scrape off any unwanted paint, but you'd have to be careful of not scratching the paint off the car that's suppose to stay on. Also using acetone could help to get unwanted paint off. But it's easier to just take your time masking and get it right so you don't have to do a ton of touch-ups afterward.
#280
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Yay, I finally got my trans fixed. Went to Gettysburg Transmission since Case was already talking to the guy about the problem. Hopefully no more P1870 and rough 1-2 shifts. Even though the code is for the torque converter, that does not mean it's the torque converter itself that's the problem (codes don't necessarily mean anything as I've found out several times now). It was the valve body, apparently they're known for going bad on these transmissions. So he flushed the system, put in the new gasket and filter I bought from the rebuild, and rebuilt the valve body. I also asked to firm up my shifts a little. So not only is that problem solved, I have a firmer shift and better gas mileage. I left the shop with half a tank and came home with half a tank. It's a 40+ mile drive and I barely used any gas. A huge improvement from the previous 1/8-1/4 tank of gas used to make a trip like that. Only cost me $170 for everything, including the diag.