The Silver Bullet Build Thread

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  #1  
Old 07-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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The Mustang Hunter
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Default The Silver Bullet Build Thread

Ok, I am starting this thread to consolidate all of my questions and progress on The Silver Bullet, my 1995 Z28 M6 Convertible.

So I plan on doing LE1 heads (and supporting mods) a built rear end and a tranny built to match my dyno tune. And upgraded brakes and suspension.

So I will post this question first: Here is a list of things I have thought I will need for the engine build:

LE1 Heads and Cam (upgraded valves, springs)
Pacesetter LT's
ORY pipe
Dyno tune
K&N CAI
Intake tube
36 lb/hr injectors
Ported Intake (LE)
Aluminum driveshaft
Plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and coil
Water Pump

Other than fluids and gaskets, have I missed anything? (Craby) Thanks. I will upload detailed pics of the car later today.


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  #2  
Old 07-27-2011, 07:59 PM
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Default Warning 56k users. Bandwith hog!!

Ok, here are the pics of my car at the moment:

Pics of the engine bay:

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Pics of the front:

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The interior (she needs a wash...):

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Things that need to get fixed:

Someone jacked my antenna
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I need new calipers, rotors and pads:


And new tires...
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And the top is on its way out:
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And a new taillight:
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:07 PM
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So I am going to be doing this upgrade in stages. The first stage will hopefully hopefully take place in December. Members SprSSBalt and SSV6 will be helping me with stage one.

So here is my plan for Stage 1:

1.Built Differential (600 HP)

2.Built Transmission (will also hold 600 HP) with gear ratios matched to a dyno tune.

3. Pacesetter Long Tube headers (race version) and an ORY pipe. No mufflers. I will have it connect to the stock piping and leave it dumped right where the stock pipe is. If I need quiet, I'll reattach the stock muffler assembly.

4. A dyno tune, which will include EGR and AIR delete from the PCM.

5. New brake pads, rotors, and calipers.

6. New tires.


That is it for Stage One. Stage 2 will be the engine, and stage 3 will be the suspension upgrades.

What do y'all think of this upgrade plan (Stage 1)? If there is anything you think I forgot or should do simultaneously, let me know. I am open to ideas! Thanks.


x01660
 
  #4  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:16 PM
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You can do a stronger, better differential to handle more power, but it still won't be the strongest because of its physical size. GM 10 bolts are weak because of their size. If you want to handle 600hp or so, you will want to save up like $2,500 and buy a complete 9", 12 bolt, or dana rear.

As for the trans, look up Tick Performance. They do trans rebuilds and they have some great offers for manuals trans. And I assume you will also do a clutch, flywheel, etc. I recommend a twin disc clutch if you want to handle some power. Not sure what type of flywheel.

Since your doing ORY and LTs, tune out the rear O2 sensors as well. Another than that, stage 1 sounds good to me.
 
  #5  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyz28
You can do a stronger, better differential to handle more power, but it still won't be the strongest because of its physical size. GM 10 bolts are weak because of their size. If you want to handle 600hp or so, you will want to save up like $2,500 and buy a complete 9", 12 bolt, or dana rear.

As for the trans, look up Tick Performance. They do trans rebuilds and they have some great offers for manuals trans. And I assume you will also do a clutch, flywheel, etc. I recommend a twin disc clutch if you want to handle some power. Not sure what type of flywheel.

Since your doing ORY and LTs, tune out the rear O2 sensors as well. Another than that, stage 1 sounds good to me.
Good stuff. I actually have a guy who is going to be doing the rear end and the transmission. I am not planning on making that amount of power. I will be doing LE1 heads and a cam as Stage 2. I plan on no more than 450 RWHP. I really don't need more than that. I am also building the car to be a tourer, so I am going to mid to top end power. I know the LT1 is built for low end, so I am attempting to compensate by having tall gears. I think I might run 3.08's instead of the 3.23's I have now. We shall see. In any case, Stage 1 should cost about $5000 total, including parts and labor. I have a spreadsheet I created with the different stages. So far, I am at $3917 parts and labor, and I figure another $1000 for incidentals. My question is how much faster is my car going to be since I will actually be getting the 50-75 HP from the headers and tune to the ground...


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  #6  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:26 PM
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And my car is a 95, so no rear O2s!!!


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  #7  
Old 07-27-2011, 09:10 PM
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Oh I didn't even notice it was a 95 lol

Also, to answer your question, if you keep the drive train the exact same and add the exhaust and tune, it will be a little faster. Enough to feel, but not as much as many people may think. And honestly, a lot of guys with stock six speed trans are happy doing city driving with 3.73s, and some 4.10s. If you are extending your trans gear ratios, I say go 3.73s so you still have the power off the line, but also have the top end to do what you want.
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-2011, 09:16 PM
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^^^ No, I am getting taller gears (smaller numerically). I have 3.23:1 now, and I think I might go 3.08:1. I am going to be driving long distances and want to be able to do 100 MPH at 2500 RPMS...


x01660
 
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