700r4 is from a 84 caprice.

I already know my rear end is crap but i see no point in changing it until that one breaks, and i have seen many 10 bolt rear ends hold up to 500, even 600hp. Everyone runs 10bolts. You can get one built up relatively cheap, compared to the cost of buying a 12 bolt, getting a new output shaft, and a new drive shaft... Not worth it at all to me. Im not gonna have slicks so my rear end will be fine, unless, like u said, it ever catches.

And ya i havent done a ton of research on the engine. I know what bottom end I want but cams and heads confuse me. I just want something that will accelerate really fast on the street, with torque in the 2000-4500rpm.

 

You do know that a 10 bolt uses C clips to hold on the axles, and C clip rear ends aren't allowed for any car running (I think) under 12 seconds in the 1/4 mile, let alone able to hold up to 500 hp? Sure, you can get a eliminator kit, but it's still a 10 bolt and has other flaws. I do not know of any one, personally or professionally, that drag races with a 10 bolt that's pushing more than 400 hp. Most swap for a 12 bolt, 9in, Strange, or Dana rear ends.

On that note, there is a guy in one of Chevys magazine that has a LS1 pushing ~400 at the wheels and broke a 12 bolt.

 

I agree with mk and gorn. I did a 383 build not to long ago on my 88 2.8 v6. Bought a 9inch, but didn't install it at the time. Took it for a Lil test drive(during break in period) and you can feel it twisting everytime you made a small pass. Trust me that 500-600hp 10 bolt does no exist. Pics or it didn't happen.

On another matter at hand....nice build got any pics of the motor yet?

 

The only way I can see you getting away with 10 bolt is if you rarely, if ever, actually get on it from say a stop. If you ease into it, you should be fine, but I promise you one jump from a stop and you're not gonna go more than 10 feet. 10 bolts just aren't up to par and when you consider how much you would spend to make a 10 bolt stronger, you will have nearly the same amount in a 12 bolt or 9in and still be better off.

 

You realize your only going to have one tire spinning and you gearing sucks. If you did get 500hp you could easly be out run by someone with 350HP and a well built car.

Good luck with that 10. Every year there are 1000's of ford 9" rears installed in chevys most are by guys with less then 500hp.

2000-4500 RPM torque range and 500hp. Maybe with a massive supercharger but no way in heck are you doing that NA. The race motors I used to build where 383s with 14-1 compression and about the highest lift, custom ground cam you could fit past the cam bearings. Car ran on CAM2 fuel with 36 Degs timing. It dynoed just under 500hp at 6700 RPM. It idle was about 1800 RPMs and it would not move the car under 3500 RPM. It would just stall. I really do not think your goal is doable. Just getting a street friendly 400HP Small block without fuel injection is a pretty good trick. Street friendly 500hp small block on pump gas with a carb you would be a car god. Your sure not going to get there throwing parts off the shelf together.

 

to the OP

what have you been driving daily, do you own another vehicle or have patient parents?

I beg of you to listen to Gorn. Many of us "wiser" (that's a nice way of saying we have life experience) have begged youngsta's here to please draft a plan. What I don't understand is that you state you'll have your vehicle for the rest of your life because you love it and others don't understand. Yeah, I said that about my small block A body Mopar. I got it to the point where it was a pain in the butt to drive on the street. But, it had that chugga chugga sound of a radical cam and loud exhaust. It screamed "hey, the driver is oozing testosterone"

As i look back, it also screamed that the driver was clueless. I have owned 23 vehicles so far in my life and some have been toys. So much for keeping that Mopar for life.

Fast forward: I've ridden in a Terminator with long tubes, different pulley and tune. It idled just fine with the A/C running but it would outrun what you are building

I've had the pleasure of driving a new five oh - again, it will outperform what you are building and get double the mileage

I've ridden in C5's and a C6 Z06 as well as tuned WRX's, all will outperform what you are building and do it with comfort

My Lt1 and Stang both outperform what my radical Mopar would do.

heck, years ago what I had to do to get to 11's NA is funny when you consider some factory cars are doing that with drag radials today. Those are steet cars vs strip only!!!!

What am I saying: it's still not too late because all you've done so far is essentially strip down a car and cleaned it and tossed in some rug. Sure, you got a junkyard engine but so what, those are a dime a dozen

It's still not too late for you to step back and review what you are doing. It almost sounds as if your entire goal is to street race against some vettes in your area.

 

Hey guys, I decided I am going to ignore anyone telling me I shouldn't go on with the project I have embarked. I know it is rude, I am not dismissing the wisdom of you older guys, this is simply something I have dreamed a lot about ever since I was little.

To torque is good,
I also have a 1996 S10 that i use as a daily driver and I have a 1998 Cavalier that is currently in storage, saving it for emergency or for my little sister when she gets her license in a year or two.

Gorn,
I agree that my goals weren't exactly realistic, and I did not realize how much work it is to get such low end power, but I have found that I can easily make affordable power in the mid to high end range with good heads and a big cam.

I still have seen many 10 bolts with cars in my area pushing 500hp, its not like I'm gonna have slicks on my car, i think I will be fine still.

 

Sooooooooo, here are my current updates!


I bought a brand new 421 stroker (had to drive 202 miles to get it!). I found it on craigslist and the guy I got it from gave me an amazing deal and even broke it in for me and set the timing for me so I'm good to go. He thought the compression ratio was around 10:1, but after we went through 3 starters trying to turn it over fast enough, we predicted more like 11:1.

Specs:
CAM: SUM-1108
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 3,400-7,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 254
Duration at 050 inch Lift 244 int./254 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 302
Advertised Exhaust Duration 312
Advertised Duration 302 int./312 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.510 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.533 in.

it has 1.6 rockers so I think my lift is a reasonable amount higher.

-summit racing aluminum heads with 74cc combustion chambers and 210cc intake runners
-holley 750cfm carb
-procomp high rise intake
-howard crank forged 4140 steel (3.875 stroke)
-howard rods forged 4140 rods
-howard HRC flat top forged pistons

probably around a grand in machine work for the block and heads combined.

Please give me your opinion but I predict this motor produces 450-520 horsepower at around 6500rpm. Im still catching on but I this is my best guess.

When we broke it in, we found that it ides great at 1200 rpm with the cam BARELY noticable!!! Ill probably idle it at 1000 though to show it off a bit to other enthusiasts

 

More updates!


I began my paint work for the engine bay


engine bay finished with my new UMI K-member I bought Road Race version!


a shot of us breaking in the cam on my 421 stroker


Whats left of the old K member (I am still taking my A arms off, but I'm using new shock tower braces since these were a little rusted)


pretty paint


Almost ready to put the motor in the car


According to my builder, it is hard to find powerful starters with the two staggered bolt pattern such as mine shown here? Can anyone verify this?


This is another pic of the new starter (I don't even want to show the old one.... it was rough). He said this will fit, however the old one had 11 teeth and this one has 9? Will that be okay (maybe just a lower gearing?), or will this be an issue?


I think this wire will be thick enough for my alternator... Its stock amperage, and the wire is bigger than the one I found on my s10.


Does anyone know the pinout for this?


And can someone please help me understand how this sbc starter works? I have never had the opportunity to get hands on with these. Its my understanding that all I have to do is apply power to terminal "r" and the starter will engage and turn the motor over? Does the starter ground through the block?


haha my "Wall of camaro parts"


boxes of interior parts soon to be back in!

 

What needs to be done before my project is complete:

-I need to take my tranny in to the local shop to verify I built it correctly.
-I need to purchase a radiator, and install all my cooling system and hoses.
-I need to run brake lines
-I need to run tranny cooler lines
-I'm gonna pickup a UMI sway bar and a UMI HVAC block off plate hopefully, but not a crucial component of finishing this project

Then I just need to check for leaks and I should be good to go