My concern after reading the thread and watching his vids is that the direction he's been going has changed - but that may be a misunderstanding on my part. I do think if he puts enough into it to pass whatever local legislation that'll be a street monster.

 

I think it great you have dug in so far. I done know who is helping you with the tranny but your messing up big time. You really need to clean things up more before you remove that front pump if you are not doing complete tear down. One spec of that crude falls into to the tranny and it is on the WRONG side of the filter. It can end up in the valve body and it will drive you crazy until you pull it back out and do it again.

I saw that pic and I could hear my tranny teacher screaming If I was tearing down rebuild that would be fine cause I would send the case out for Pressure testing and cleaning but on a repair you wheel that thing to the wash bay/pressure washer and get the bell house area ready to eat off of before you pull that front pump off.

Good luck.

Edit:
What is the fuel line and filter rated for PSI wise? What I max pressure your fuel pump can output. Forget the regulator the system needs to hold pressure if/when the regulator fails or the line becomes pinched or plugged. Most electric pumps are capable of upwards of 80 PSI. Your line needs to be rated for twice that pressure. If that line busts and your car does not have all the normal safety controls in place then you just built an 80 PSI flame thrower.

GM fuel pumps relays will only cycle on for about 2 seconds and will shut back down if they do not see oil pressure. This avoids the flame thrower as a possibility. My guess is all that safety stuff is not longer in your car. That combined with very weak looking fuel line is very bad situation. Remember there is no undo in life if you burn yourself, or worse yet a loved one, you will never forgive yourself. I think your fearless approach to working on this car is great but you really need someone make sure everything is safe

 

Wait,, what?? You know the Kmember is the part of the car that the motor and front suspension bolt to how are you not using one?

The Kmember is design to be engine specific. There is a V8 LT1 K Member and 3.4 Kmember. They are shaped different. If you want to use the V6 K member your going to have to make motor mounts. We had one member who has done it You can use the LT1 Kmember and it only needs a hole drilled but your going to have to do some hvy modding to your oil pan.


I grabed the link.
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...4-5-7-a-45720/

Its funny how he states like he is an expert. "You don't need a V8 Kmember." Then later in the thread the first major issue was the need for custom motor mounts. In my Opinion you much better off using the V8 crossmember cause that puts the centerline of the motor where the factory intended and you have less cleance issues so you can use stock headers and exhaust. Also if you do not understand drive line angles you really should not adjusting where the motor sits. Besides oil pans are just sheet metal they are easy to mod.

 

Quick Update.

@Gorn, I'm not using any K-Member, I am using a sbc front motor plate. I am going to buy a ton of AN8 (actually now that I think of it it could've been AN6 or AN10... Ill check it out later). And I am going to use ANx line for my fuel lines just in case (since I'm already using it for my tranny).

Also, I decided I'm going to pay a shop to do the tranny for me. George's transmission is going to restart for me and make sure I got everything right and they are going to clean it. I'm going to put the valve body in and put my shift kit on.

For those wondering, this will be a VERY street legal car. Safety is my number one priority and everything I put in my car will exceed requirements. I live in Michigan so.... no emissions

Progress update?
I have 2 new racing seats to drop in the car. They are steel frames, black and red. I will probably make a bracket this weekend and test fit them.

I decided to put carpet in it... So on the 23rd I'm getting custom molded black carpet to go on the floor.

I talked with REDLINEGOODS.com and they are hooking me up. I am buying new door panel inserts, shift boot, e brake boot, and arm rest cover. The doors and armrest will say "CAMARO" on them. Everything will be black leather and red stitch. I am also working with them, because they are going to make me a leather dashboard

I just have to find a way to send my dash to them or buy one in poland and ship it to them, since their company is poland based.

Why am I building this car and "wasting" so much money on it?
-If you don't own a camaro, you just won't get it. I love this car, and I feel like I have a bond with it. Sure, for 10, 12k, I could get a really nice ride. The feeling of working on a car and building it yourself, how YOU want it, is priceless. I love this car.

@Ultron and anyone else interested, I am building it to use as a daily driver and take to tracks. I want to be able to cruise around and when I see an import or an italian supercar, I wanna give 'em a run for their money. Also.... The people in my town with corvettes think they are hot ****.... and I'm gonna show 'em whats up haha


Ill post some more pics by the end of the weekend. I'm gonna get the interior finished and put the trany in before I do the engine

 

I am still confussed, What will your control arms bolt to? What will you rack and pinion bolt too? The Kmember is a very important part of the structure of the car there is NO way you can "not use any K-member" and the car be even close to safe. Are you sure you know what the Kmember is? Not having a K-member would effect every crumple zone in the car. Heck it is part of the frame of the car not having it is a failure point for state inspection, heck even a small crack in it would fail any safey inspection. Just look at what the Kmember looks out of the car. All that stuff bolts to K member. There are tubular version out there but they are still K-members.

 

Well I guess I never took a look at it that closely before... I guess I assumed that the steering and suspension had separate mounts... Feelin' a little stupid.

I thought the whole purpose of running motor plates was to not have a k member to have room for headers and stuff? At least i guess thats what I thought.

I guess I should've read more on suspension.
Should I:
1. Keep the stock K member, and fab motor mounts?
2. Keep the stock k member, and use motor plates?
3. BMR tubular K member and motor plates?
4. BMR tubular K member and motor mounts?

Thanks very much! And sorry haha

 

Like I said in earlier posts you need to think twice about fabing mounts. You will need to get the motor back in the exact factory position and the right angle. Or you need to re set you drive line angles which is not simple. You should not just stick a motor in and hope for the best, it looks right almost never works long term. Out of the 4 above options you should just go for the BMR K-member. Although I am not sure if the TBI motor is a direct bolt in. I don't know the year but I think alot of the Vortech V8s had the same mount as the gen one SBC

Just curious but have you ever driven a car that had plates and no motor mounts? I have done it many times in race cars and I can tell you it is fine on race day but your going to want to drive with a mouth pc in cause your teeth are going to chatter. There is nothing like driving a 14:1 compression , no motor mount , solid lifter, Cam 2 real race engine but after about 30 minutes you can feel exhausted and kind of num. You really have to be used to it. You can forget about giving anyone who is not a motor head a ride, they will swear your car is not safe.

 

No, I have never driven with a motor plate before haha. So maybe I'll get some more cash together and grab a BMR k member and some sbc mounts? Or I could get a z28 k member which would b about 400 bucks cheaper. The block I'm putting in is a 1993 TBI 350 from a 1500 pickup, no vortech heads

Good thing you told me this, otherwise I probably would've had a death trap front end... lol

Any other input is appreciated greatly, and I am really thankful for you to be helping me on this!

-Austin

 

LT1 K member is the way to go budget wise you just need to figure out the oil pan. The motor you have is not the best. Infact I would think I could out run you in my 3.8\ 5 speed. Those motors create decent torque are low RPMs but they fall flat much over 4500 RPM. A head upgrade is in order but that is just the first step.

The cheapest and easiest way for you to get to 350 HP would be to buy a wrecked doner car and used everything from the V8. That is going to give every single part you need and you can upgrade as you go and budget will allow. As it stands the process is going to $100 you to death. I have done a lot of these types of project and I see a lot of I just need this and that and about 40 trips to the hardware store at $10-$20 a pop. If you sat down and added up all the little stuff you would find you car it MUCH cheaper to just buy a wrecked car and get everything at once.

 

I think you misunderstood me, the BLOCK i'm using is from a 1993 truck. Its going to be a 383 stroker and I already have the bottom end parts. I just need to purchase the top end then get machine work... I'm looking to get around 500hp with a scat 9000 crank, forged aluminum pistons, i beam rods, thumper dragster cam, idk what heads yet, and 1.6 rockers. I should be pretty close to 500hp i think with that setup. The motor i build will be the best, I'm not just going to dump a dinky stock motor in. Just clarifying