2001 Z28 6.0 LQ4 project
#21
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
No its not a true SS its a 93 "Major clone". Someone spent a lot of money to make look like 98-02 SS including all the rear deck and all the SLP emblems. They even got the correct shifter and SLP headers. Dash is a dead give away. The steering wheel was not hooked up so I was kicking the tire. That is my story and I am sticking to it. Motor is in pcs. With a t-56 it was not a bad buy for $1500
#24
Well, got her cranked this morning and she sounds nice. A little rough but nothing that a tune probably won't fix. It was a nightmare since Saturday though to get her up and running. Got everything setup and dropped the battery in and the starter wouldn't engage the flexplate. Drove an hour to pick up a starter for 35 bucks. Slapped that one in and the battery wouldn't hold enough of a charge to crank. Traded out the battery and apparently got a bad one. Wouldn't hold 8 volts and less that 90 cranking amps. Took it back this morning and got a new one and it fired right up.
Now all that is left is putting the front swaybar back on, finish up the two big bolts on the rear of the torque arm and the y-pipe. I should be good to go from there.
Now all that is left is putting the front swaybar back on, finish up the two big bolts on the rear of the torque arm and the y-pipe. I should be good to go from there.
#25
So I was getting an error code with the cam sensor and swapped it out thinking that would solve the p0343 code (Camshaft position sensor circuit, high output) and that didn't fix it. Anyone have any ideas on what to do now? The car sounds like it is strong and running fairly smooth.
#26
So I was getting an error code with the cam sensor and swapped it out thinking that would solve the p0343 code (Camshaft position sensor circuit, high output) and that didn't fix it. Anyone have any ideas on what to do now? The car sounds like it is strong and running fairly smooth.
#27
I didn't pull the timing cover. I was going to swap out the LS2 timing cover that is on it now with the LS1 that was on it but I could not get the bolt out of the balancer. I bent my breaker bar trying with about a four foot pipe on it. Decided to just leave it be after that.
I am going to do a fault test on the camshaft harness first and then if that shows no problem I will pull the timing cover.
I am going to do a fault test on the camshaft harness first and then if that shows no problem I will pull the timing cover.
#28
Yeah, that would suck wouldn't it, if it is the bolts. Especially since you were "that close" to it.
Better to find out now instead of later. Should the bolts let loose, it probably wouldn't leave behind a very pretty sight.
Better to find out now instead of later. Should the bolts let loose, it probably wouldn't leave behind a very pretty sight.
#29
Well, I thought I would try and give the balancer bolt another go and just lock-tite the cam bolts but I cannot get that bolt out for the life of me. I have a 4 foot breaker bar and just bent one of my crescent wrenches in half almost. I was using it to brace the balancer against the alternator brace so the balancer wouldn't spin. I've taken my impact gun to it numerous times and all it does is laugh at the gun.
I'm out of ideas on how to get this frigging bolt out. Other than welding the socket to it somehow. Even then I would still have to figure a way to secure the balancer to keep it from spinning.
I'm out of ideas on how to get this frigging bolt out. Other than welding the socket to it somehow. Even then I would still have to figure a way to secure the balancer to keep it from spinning.
#30
Well, got out the bolt, cam bolts were in and tight. Pulled those and put some loc-tite on them and reinstalled. Now my front seal is leaking like a stuck pig.
I was able to get the pcm to flash, apparently trying to read the pcm on a low battery is a no-go. I was able to hook up my computer to the programmer and view everything realtime. I saw no counts on the high to low or low to high voltage checks via the programmer and computer combo. Only could see it through the programmer itself and even then it's not showing up on the dash in the form of a CEL.
Going to go get a new seal, put that in and finish up some little odds and ends. If everything comes up good then it'll be on the road this weekend hopefully.
I was able to get the pcm to flash, apparently trying to read the pcm on a low battery is a no-go. I was able to hook up my computer to the programmer and view everything realtime. I saw no counts on the high to low or low to high voltage checks via the programmer and computer combo. Only could see it through the programmer itself and even then it's not showing up on the dash in the form of a CEL.
Going to go get a new seal, put that in and finish up some little odds and ends. If everything comes up good then it'll be on the road this weekend hopefully.