Please excuse such a dirty engine bay. This k&n intake came on the car. Now i was told im just sucking in hot air with this. Is this true? If so would i be best off with a getting a lid from slp

 

You're sucking in less than ideal air with that intake, but it better than some I've seen. The intake you have on there is meant to be used with a hood that has "ram air", which theoretically shoves cold air into the intake, where else with your hood, the intake is sucking up warm air.

IMO, you best option is to move the filter either to the drivers front wheel well where a lot of CAI are put or you can extend the connection to the filter and stick it in front of the radiator/condenser. Personally, i'd go with the wheel well one because it's easier. Might cost a bit more...but easier.

Also, a lid may help a little bit. But I'm not entirely sure.

 

a lid will certainly help as if funnels air from under the front air dam. I just sold mine, otherwise I'd send it your way.

Cutting the bump stops will not reduce ride quality, unless the car is riding on the bump stops already in which case you have bigger problems

 

Okay thanks for the info cheeks! would i be better off running a lid or an intake going down by the wheel well as mk said?

 

whatever is cheaper to make work. I'd prefer a lid, only because there are a multitude of options that are all bolton to upgrade the lid. If you make your own cold air intake, then you're kind of stuck where you sit.

Check into the SSRA (super sucker ram air) kit, it has been proven time and time again to give you up to a tenth in your 1/4 mile time just going to that kit. Also, a lid has been proven to give you cooler IATs and when you start paying attention to those, you start going faster!!

 

Ill look into the kit. But will i still need to cut the bump stops even with sPacers?

 

I would stray away from running spacers if you can, it puts uneven stress on everything from the brake rotor, to the wheels studs. its not hard to cut them honestly, I'll see if I can run out and snap a picture of mine, a sawzall and 20 minutes will do it

 

So if i cut the stops i wont need spaces then

 

You really don't need to cut the stops in the rear with those wheels they are nowhere near them at ride height because of the wheel diameter. You will however need a 1.25 spacer/adapter for the rear. Being that thick, it's a bolt on deal with new lugs not just a spacer. 5 on 4-3/4 is the lug pattern. they look like this:

You bolt it on like you would the wheel and then bolt the wheel to it. I ran a set of these from Skulte Performance for a couple years with no issue. There is no other way to bolt those wheels on it's not even close to fitting without that spacer.

The fronts will bolt on without any spacers however they will stick inside the fender a good bit and look really skinny. If it were me I'd pick up some of the longer ARP lugnut studs and run a 3/8"-1/2" spacer in the front to push the wheel out. You'll see why when you bolt it on. They're not horrible as-is without the spacer but I didn't care for the look on mine when I ran these wheels.

As for tire sizes, factory size for those wheels are 245/40ZR-18 for the front and P285/35ZR-19 for the rear. You can get a 295/30 on the rear, {edit}and looks like a lot of vette guys run 305/30's regularly.

 

I used a 1.50 inch spacer on mine initally, I didnt need to cut anything however the edge of the tire was pretty close to the fender because I used Eibach lowering springs.

Drove the car a week like that, hated hitting any bumps and would cringe as soon as I saw a big bump. Went back to the orignal springs in the back giving a little more clearance and bought some 1.25 inch spacers bringing the tire in a little as well. You can actually get some bump stops and modify them slightly so you can at least have them just in case you hit a large bump.

For my Vette rims I bought the 305 tires for the back, they are pretty wide tires and on a V6 you really need to see what kind of rear end you are running gear wise and get rid of the weak link, the two peice drive shaft.

I bought a used WS6 rear end because I wanted to have the disk brakes in the rear. The guy I got mine from was very savy on Camaros and Firebirds, he didnt cut the brake lines! He unhooked the emergency brake cables as well which saved me time and money. All I did was change out the fluids and hook up the brake lines. I didnt have the sensors the newer rear ends have so I was in luck that the old sensor hook up matched the new rear end.

Sorry just giving my two cents.