1995 camaro v6 350 swap!!!
i have a 1995 camaro that had a 3.4 in it. i bought it as a daily driver but had a bad misfire. engine blew and frankly i didnt want the v6 replaced with another. so i bought a 350 small block. i am completely rebuilding it top to bottom. now i wanted to use the t-56 transmission but i want somthing wild and out of the ordinary! i am getting a sag 4 speed. i know that the modifications will be heavy but i am willing to put the time and money into the car. i am just wondering if this will even work? i know i have to get a new driveshaft and rear end but what mods will i have to do to put the shifter in? thats where im stuck. i really do not want to buy just any z28. i want to make a "modern hotrod" i want to have the only 4 speed 4th gen!! what does everyone think??
Your ideas of what you think you need to pull off this swap fall way short. I think you need to read this thread from start to finish. https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...ictures-68220/ See how much time and money was necessary to do the same thing you want to do. Then ask the guy if he would do it all over again knowing what he knows now. 4th gen's aren't a yank the engine and put almost anything you want back in type of car, like the older models are.
Make sure u have at least ten grand for the project and a few extra thousand for small parts
I would do it over again but thats because the car is special to me and i learned so much. If you dont also dont already have an extensive knowledge of these cars, be prepared to learn by breaking things... Sometimes expensive things. Just buy a z28 and build the motor. Also, u dont need a new driveshaft or rear end. I kept my stock ones for now and they are holding up. And not to burst ur bubble.... But most 4th gens ARE four speeds lol
I would do it over again but thats because the car is special to me and i learned so much. If you dont also dont already have an extensive knowledge of these cars, be prepared to learn by breaking things... Sometimes expensive things. Just buy a z28 and build the motor. Also, u dont need a new driveshaft or rear end. I kept my stock ones for now and they are holding up. And not to burst ur bubble.... But most 4th gens ARE four speeds lol

That cost around $14k now. Plus i just bought a new alternator and intake. Need a lot of small things yet also. Make sure u have a plan because i didnt have one at first. U r gonna need a tubular kmember... Id get the umi one. Also u will need a different tranny mount either with a built in torque arm mount or a seperate tunnel brace mount and shorter torque arm. Then u might as well go through all your bushings and ball joints since u just tore it all apart. U're already at about $2k if you do it all yourself. Now get a different fuel pump, pressure regulator, radiator, lt1 headers, the tranny cost/rebuild, custom torque concerter, tracking down and getting custom hoses and coolant lines, tranny tv cable and intercooler, andqire looms. Thats just what i can name off my head that has to be custom for that motor and that stuff rlly adds up
thanks both of you! I am going to have this car as a project car not my DD any more. i realize how much money is going down on this project and im ready for that. im very determined to do this swap. so far what has been done is engine pulled, tranny pulled, pcm and wiring harness pulled. im ordering the umi k member for the sbc/bbc soon. i havnt really sat down to look at everything as a whole but i know it will be quite a long journey.
If I were to attempt that project, I would try something a little different with the carburetor setup. Get yourself one of these cross ram adapters. In addition to it adding a ram effect to your incoming fuel, it would allow you to mount the carb towards the front of the engine, which would eliminate the need to hack up the cowl which also causes you to lose the use of your windshield wipers.
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
Learning is always good but learning about 30 year tech is not as useful as learning about a modern cars. Most of what you are going to learn is how make a modern shell work with old tec. It not going to transfer well. Doing a Ls1 swap and making the computer work as it should would be easier wrench wise, a lot more research (a lot of learning), but when you where done you could walk up to just about any modern GM product and work on it. The LS1 swap could be done with used parts less of a budget less work and it would get 22 MPG and could lift the front wheel off the ground. You think people will like the old school stuff on your car? Wait till you see the reaction from lifting the front wheel off the ground in a street car. People will follow you home and offer to pay you to help them get there.
Large project are a big hunk of your life you want to get the most out of them you can. Most of these projects never get finished because of life changes. In the end a modern car with old school mechanics will be worth more in parts than in a finish car. If you really want to go old school hook up a horse Amish pimp that bad boy.
Large project are a big hunk of your life you want to get the most out of them you can. Most of these projects never get finished because of life changes. In the end a modern car with old school mechanics will be worth more in parts than in a finish car. If you really want to go old school hook up a horse Amish pimp that bad boy.
Last edited by Gorn; Jul 19, 2013 at 03:23 PM.
thank you for the cross ram adapters idea!! i might pick one up so i can keep my wipers. but i want to put a bigger rear end in. i have seen stuff on z28 rears, 9" fords, 8.8 fords but i am just stuck. i know i might be able to just scrape by with the 10 bolt but i want to upgrade that. can some one help me here??
The stock rear can last if you're extremely easy on it and aren't making butt loads of power. Having an auto helps too. But you'll want to look at Moser or Strange if you are dead set on getting a different rear. They both make 12 bolt and 9in versions. Strange also makes a Dana 60 version which is on par with a the 9in as far as strength goes.
A 12 bolt is good for most applications. A 9in is good if you want the ease of changing the rear gears fast and don't want to have to deal with C clips, but sucks up some HP and fuel mileage because of how low the pinion meshes with the ring. The S60 usually weighs a little more but has a bigger ring gear than the 9in and is the only axle I haven't seen a video yet of it grenading while drag racing. The S60 and 9in should only really be considered if you plan on going with a stick that's making lots of torque and is going to be launched with drag slicks.
A 12 bolt is good for most applications. A 9in is good if you want the ease of changing the rear gears fast and don't want to have to deal with C clips, but sucks up some HP and fuel mileage because of how low the pinion meshes with the ring. The S60 usually weighs a little more but has a bigger ring gear than the 9in and is the only axle I haven't seen a video yet of it grenading while drag racing. The S60 and 9in should only really be considered if you plan on going with a stick that's making lots of torque and is going to be launched with drag slicks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




