Z28 Woes
#1
Z28 Woes
Sup, guys. Frequent viewer. Infrequent poster. I'm having a few problems with my Camaro I'm hoping someone can identify for me. First off, I have a '95 Z28 fresh off a rebuilt automatic tranny, which is when I began experiencing these issues.
Question A: Ever since, my car vibrates... Once I get to around 40, the vibration becomes flagrant. There's a pattern - like I can feel the fuel being injected into the cylinders. The more I accelerate, the faster it gets. And the more I let off the slower and longer it becomes. If I rev up in park, it's very noticeable. Taking my car out of town has become annoying and arduous because of it... At first I thought it was an injector, but now I'm leaning more towards a mount. Any thoughts?
Question B: Again, ever since I had the tranny rebuild, I can't get over 2,500 RPM's in Drive. Flooring it does nothing. Won't go over 2,500 RPM's... I get very little throttle response. Anyone who's ever driven a Z28 knows that if you floor it, it takes off like a rocket. I get nothing of the sort anymore. It's just not a Z28 as it sits... Is it possible that this correlates with the aforementioned problem? Could a bad motor mount or injector cause me to lose THAT much power or throttle response? Or do you think the guy who re-installed my transmission simply didn't set the shift points right? When I drop it down into 2nd (automatic), it seems to have a lot more pickup, so the latter seems a tad-bit more pertinent. Btw, I replaced the TPS not too long ago, so I know it has nothing to do with that.
Question C: This doesn't have much to do with anything, but I was wondering if it's bad to shift from 2nd to Drive while rolling. Like, if I get it up to 4,000 RPM's in second, let off, and shift into Drive.
If anyone got passed the tl;dr portion of my thread, do you have any ideas?? I'm freakin' pissed... I want my Z28 back... -_-'
Ask me any questions, please!
Edit: My SES light has flashed me twice since the rebuild. Won't come on again.
Rebuild and new converter. And no, not yet. My mechanic shouldn't charge me since it wasn't doing any of this before, right? The rebuild is warrantied, at least...
He told me it would run differently at first, as the tranny needs to settle. I've noticed. I literally cannot tell the car is shifting. Ever... I mean, what's the break-in period?
Question A: Ever since, my car vibrates... Once I get to around 40, the vibration becomes flagrant. There's a pattern - like I can feel the fuel being injected into the cylinders. The more I accelerate, the faster it gets. And the more I let off the slower and longer it becomes. If I rev up in park, it's very noticeable. Taking my car out of town has become annoying and arduous because of it... At first I thought it was an injector, but now I'm leaning more towards a mount. Any thoughts?
Question B: Again, ever since I had the tranny rebuild, I can't get over 2,500 RPM's in Drive. Flooring it does nothing. Won't go over 2,500 RPM's... I get very little throttle response. Anyone who's ever driven a Z28 knows that if you floor it, it takes off like a rocket. I get nothing of the sort anymore. It's just not a Z28 as it sits... Is it possible that this correlates with the aforementioned problem? Could a bad motor mount or injector cause me to lose THAT much power or throttle response? Or do you think the guy who re-installed my transmission simply didn't set the shift points right? When I drop it down into 2nd (automatic), it seems to have a lot more pickup, so the latter seems a tad-bit more pertinent. Btw, I replaced the TPS not too long ago, so I know it has nothing to do with that.
Question C: This doesn't have much to do with anything, but I was wondering if it's bad to shift from 2nd to Drive while rolling. Like, if I get it up to 4,000 RPM's in second, let off, and shift into Drive.
If anyone got passed the tl;dr portion of my thread, do you have any ideas?? I'm freakin' pissed... I want my Z28 back... -_-'
Ask me any questions, please!
Edit: My SES light has flashed me twice since the rebuild. Won't come on again.
Rebuild and new converter. And no, not yet. My mechanic shouldn't charge me since it wasn't doing any of this before, right? The rebuild is warrantied, at least...
He told me it would run differently at first, as the tranny needs to settle. I've noticed. I literally cannot tell the car is shifting. Ever... I mean, what's the break-in period?
Last edited by craby; 02-25-2012 at 10:48 AM. Reason: tripple post
#2
sure sounds like whoever rebuilt or installed the trans needs to do it again. vibration could be the converter is not lined up right. what all was done? have you taken it back and told them it was messed up?
Last edited by craby; 02-25-2012 at 12:55 AM.
#4
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This sounds more like an engine issue then a trans problem. A "flashing" check engine light means you could do damage to your car. Most of the time it means you have a miss or a plug not firing. That allows raw gas into the CAT and can damage it.
You should get the trouble codes from the computer, it stores them. Do you know when the Opti was replaced last? The opti is a very weak point in the LT1 ignition system.
I should note that replacing a part does not mean it can not be the issue. Infact if I had replaced a part on my car and it started acting up in another way 4 weeks later I would check that part first. Miss manufature of parts is pretty common and if the part is not currently used by GM the testing requirments goes way down.
I should also note that this would be concidered a drivabilty issue and can be the most complicated type of problems on these car. You will get a lot of "My car was doing that and it was this" Problem is it could be anything. You can throw parts at it and hope or you can take it to someone who understands how the system works and can test to find out where the failure is coming from.
You should get the trouble codes from the computer, it stores them. Do you know when the Opti was replaced last? The opti is a very weak point in the LT1 ignition system.
I should note that replacing a part does not mean it can not be the issue. Infact if I had replaced a part on my car and it started acting up in another way 4 weeks later I would check that part first. Miss manufature of parts is pretty common and if the part is not currently used by GM the testing requirments goes way down.
I should also note that this would be concidered a drivabilty issue and can be the most complicated type of problems on these car. You will get a lot of "My car was doing that and it was this" Problem is it could be anything. You can throw parts at it and hope or you can take it to someone who understands how the system works and can test to find out where the failure is coming from.
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