Refer to my aggregate problem thread... https://camaroforums.com/forum/4th-g...75/#post533595

While Seafoaming my car a week ago, a friend who had been standing behind the cloud of smoke informed me that my tail lights may have cut out during some light revving. I thought nothing of this and told him to get his eyes checked.

Days after, I decided to clean my car. I had it in accessory mode so I could listed to some CD's while vacuuming and scrubbing. After finishing, I went to move the car up the driveway but it seemed as if all power in the car had drained when the ignition was put in standby and the radio cut out. The starter motor wouldn't work, the electronics were gone, and the remote wouldn't respond. A few minutes later, all the car's electronics were back online and I was able to start it up and drive without a problem.

Earlier today in the middle of driving, every gauge in the cluster started moving about rapidly while the radio cut out and the headlights were flickering. Scared, I quickly turned off the engine and rolled to a stop. Every gauge returned to its normal off position except the speedometer which was stuck up past 150 mph. I had no luck starting the car back up because the problem I had while cleaning the car was back. The car was immobile for a few minutes because there was no power at all. When I finally got it started, I headed back home and the stuck speedometer sprung back into place halfway through the trip. The radio presets, time, and computer had reset themselves (SES from earlier had gone away)

I'm thinking there could be a bad ground or there's an issue with my alternator. Any ideas?

A few more minor problems I've had were the power window motors struggling to close the windows and dimness in the headlights when the brake is pressed, only when the car is OFF for both problems (window motors and headlights are fine with the engine running). Could there be a problem with my battery?

Another persistent problem I've been having has worsened. Before the car started up after the gauge cluster and lights went haywire I noticed when going from the off to standby ignition positions a strange noise would come from the ABS module that sounds a coin falling into a slot machine. This new problem stems from an old one I've been having for a while involving the ABS INOP light. A loss of brake pressure at the pedal keeps occurring soon after a cold start. Mid-braking, the car's brake pedal will become less firm and the ABS light will appear. The Low Trac light will flash on occasion.

I'm thinking the brakes need to be bled, but I'm not exactly sure how to or if I'm supposed bleed them at the ABS module in addition to the calipers. I've heard that cycling the ignition for 10 second intervals is supposed to have a similar effect as a vac?

 

OK first off lets talk about the electrical issue. 3 things come to mind here. First off and usually the most common is loose or corroded terminals at the battery. Check the cables and make sure they are clean, corrosion free and also tight. The bolt should not go in hard and the threads on the bolt and battery should be clean and not chewed up. Second is the battery has a bad cell or 2. yes this happens. You can have that checked at most auto part stores for free and make sure your cables are good before you get this tested. The last is grounds. There are 2 main grounds in the interior behind the kick panels on both sides of the dash. Make sure they are tight. Oh and I lied there is a 4th thing that comes to mind. Make sure that the red junction block is not shorting and that the cables attached to it are tight and corrosion free as well.

Brakes... I would get the system professionally bled first before spending alot of money on a new ABS unit or what have you. My local shops want only $50 for a full system flush which is a full system bleed and fluid replacement. Do that first and see where it all goes after that.

Massey

 

My brakes were acting goofy earlier today on start-up. Instead of the ABS INOP light coming on when I lost pressure slowing down a steep incline, the Low Trac light would come on for 10 or so seconds and the stopping power was extremely low. I also noticed an odd ticking noise from the rear of the car. When the Low Trac light went off, the normal INOP light came online and the pressure increased enough where I could actually stop.

My guess is that the ABS system tried to power on during start-up, but for the first time heavy braking was needed during my drive the system was being counterproductive. The computer must have realized this and disabled the ABS judging by the switch from the Low Trac to INOP light.

With the help of a friend, I bled the brakes farthest to closest from the module and the module itself using the bleeder screws going from back to front. No luck at all. I've since pulled the ABS VI fuse to prevent the dysfunctional system from powering on in the first place (at least until it can be repaired).

 

This is the exact problem... unsolved

95 camaro low trac problem - Automotive Forums .com Car Chat
>Finally had time to look at the car closer; my wife has been driving my truck. When applying the brakes and brake pedal begins to go to floor; i am hearing a clicking from under the hood like a relay. After two or three stops like this i get a light `` abs inoperable``. After this the cars brakes works fine; as if nothing has happened. Could this be one of the abs wheel sensors?