Possible? I would say likely not, unless you requested it. Switching used parts with other used parts does not make a lot of sense for a mechanic, The question is where would you draw the line? You can not really tell by looking which is the new this or that so it becomes a gamble.

Lets say it takes 13 hours to swap a complete motor out of one car and into the other. Depending on where you live a shop will be $75-$110 hour. How many hours are you willing to pay to have used parts swaped? Is the one coming with the new motor better then the one on the old motor? You could spend good money swapping used parts only to have your used parts fail, either way nothing is under warranty. The yard warrany only covers the main engine NOT all the stuff bolted to it.

When I install my used 40,000 mile motor in my 96 I stripped down to the block, I then did a compare of the parts I had and used the best of what I had. I would bet I spent 8-10 hours on the used block getting it ready to go back in plus another $300 replacing stuff I was not happy with and normal where items. Had I paid someone to do that it would have added another $1000 to the bill. Worth it? yes I have driven the car 3 years and almost 70k with no issues except and bad coil. But most customers woud never understand why the motor they just spent $800 needs another $1000 worth of work done to it.

Used motor tear down

 

Funny story, I did a used engine for my Father. He had a 1984 Olds 98, top of the line. He was terrible at taking care of it. By 1989 she had 120K on her and she was shot. Leaking, smoking, sliping the whole 9 yards.

I found a 1985 Caddy some old dude had and be backed out infront of a truck. Just under 9,000 miles on the car. I bought everything that would convert over. I paid just under a grand. I spent 4 full Saturdays (about 30 hours) in the dealership on the lift. I replace every inch of vacuum hose and coolant hose. I rebuilt the 9K Carb and service the 9K replacment trans just incase, replaced the entire exhaust, rebuilt the front suspension and aligned it. All told it cost him $1800. I even let him borrow my convertion van for a month while I did it. When I told him it was $1800 he told me he could have gotten it done cheaper at his friend garage (who wanted to just put head gaskets on it LOL). Three months later the Purge valve failed he told me it should be under warranty. That is why most shops will never install a used motor. No matter what you do your dealing with used parts. I used the newer 9K purge valve, who knows had I left his in120K one in maybe it would have lasted longer.

Now if a friend ask for help I don't charge and they make the decision on which parts to use and how far to go.

 

Well that's not all a bad thing. Alternator for instance, how can I say it lasted less than 700 miles if it wasn't the one I bought new? Maybe that alternator I took in wasn't mine afterall. Maybe my current problem is a bad water pump? Can't say it wasn't that old if this one isn't the one I had before. I just want a clear answer about my coolant. I don't want to hear "well we couldn't find a reason" and certainly not an internal issue excuse either. I haven't replaced things like starter or fuel pump.

 

I had a similar problem with my 98 V6. I've had to replace my water pump twice. In my case, it was the bearing in the the water pump that failed first then the water pump itself. The first time I had green coolant on the ground. The second time I caught it before the water pump failed completely but I had to replace it anyway because the bearings in is had failed and the water pump had almost completely failed. I hope this helps.

 

Well they say it's the water pump and because it overheated (which technically it didn't according to gauges), the thermostat. $396 and will be ready tomorrow. Geesh this really sucks the money.

 

The probe on the temperature sending unit reads coolant temperature, not air temperature. When your engine lost coolant, the sending unit was no longer in contact with the coolant. Whatever reading you had on the gauge was not to be trusted as accurate. Your engine was hotter than you thought it was.

 

Maybe so. But it didn't sound hot lol. There was no noises coming from it. I never drove it that far and it wasn't completely out of coolant. It wouldn't even hold 1 gallon. I just hope that whatever they fix on it was really the problem.

 

Well I got my car back yesterday after a $425 water pump job. Just checked the coolant while I was out checking the mail and I don't see any in the radiator. I'm so tired of this.

They did tell me that the water pump that "went bad" was not my water pump. It was the one on this motor. He told me while ago after the fact that they could of changed the pumps out and only charged the labor. He still had the old motor.

 

Well it held 28 ounces of water. I called and had a chat with the foreman and he thinks it was an air pocket and wants me to bring it back for a free pressure test. I can't tell if there's any on the ground because I park in rocks.

 

Typically, Ive noticed with these stubborn babies, you need to keep filling the radiator for 2 to 3 days. Each day when its cold, before you leave, add some coolant. Eventually she wont take anymore. They just dont like to cycle the air out by themselves.