Ok. I'll just see if the mechanic can check the pump for me as well. I'm not good with cars.

 

NEW FUEL PUMP WITH INSTALLATION KIT E3908 | eBay

2-600 dollars??

 

what year? if your car went to pieces then it may have plugged the muffler. check plugs to see if they are fouling (black coated), check grounds, clean battery terminals and cable ends with wire brush. have you had it scanned for codes?

 

It's a '97.

And someone said it could have blew honeycomb pieces towards the back of the exhaust since it was clogged before. But, if that was the case wouldn't it have done that as soon as I drove away from the garage after getting it replaced? Not a few weeks after?

I managed to get a video from my phone. It's not the best, but if you listen closely you can hear the "gurgle/boggle" noise as soon as I press the gas.

Plus I showed you where the battery gauge drops when I floor it.

VID_20111024_233036.mp4 video by jprice1707 - Photobucket

 

For those who can't hear it, listen to 7 seconds, 17 seconds, 26 seconds-30 seconds, 38 seconds, 48 seconds, 1:13, and a few times after but you get the point. it sounds like ****

and at 1:42 is where I show the battery gauge dropping

 

Also I think I stated this before, when it boggles/gurgles it does the jerking at the same time, and the power is lacking real bad.

 

and when I press the gas a little more as its jerking (boggle only lasts for 2 seconds tops) the car shifts smoothly and jerking goes away.

It kind of acts like it's having a hard time getting power at that gear.

If I'm at 60 mph and I let go of the gas and coast, then put my foot back on the pedal and press gas a little it'll jerk and make the boggle noise. But it does it worse at lower speeds. (Mainly below 40mph)

I just know when I got the cat replaced it ran great, just like when I first got it. if the mechanic rules out the egr, tps, and fuel pump I'll take it back to the place who replaced my cat and see if they know what the problem is or have them see if its clogged anywhere.

But I believe this is a motor problem or something dealing with it. At first I thought it was a transmission problem but I doubt that since it shifts smoothly.

I just know this is driving me insane and I want my old Camaro back, the one that hauled ***.

 

I don't see how it could be the EGR since it only operates while under load and a problem with it usually sets a code. Since you said the problem goes away once at higher rpm range (greater load) then I wouldn't think it's the problem.

The TPS sends a voltage to the pcm telling it the throttle position, but the TPS is one of a few things that can figure this. If the idle voltage is between .3 and .9 then the pcm sets the reading at 0 and any other readings are seen as throttle movement, get it? It wouldn't cause your stumble either, it only reads throttle position.

Fuel pump may be an issue, but again you said at higher rpms ranges it's fine. Therefore your pump is supplying sufficient pressure.

If you live in an area that doesn't require emissions then why don't you just gut the cat or delete? IDK if you've answered that already didn't check. Have you gone back and done what others have asked about checking the battery terminals and looking for loose connections at the battery and alternator?

 

Not sure but that looks like an awful universal pump, i paid 200 dollars apiece for aerex? Pumps and went through three in a year, Next time ill pay the 600 for the bosch that has the hangar assembly and all
You get what you pay for

 

I believe that you need to get your alternator tested. When you described the feeling through your gas pedal and steering it seemed very familiar to me. I had the same problem but my voltmeter never recovered. The voltage went down from 15V or more to around 12V and kept getting lower. It turned out to be a bad alt. Replaced it after testing and it was back to running great. BTW the alt would get mega hot when running. I would guess over 150 F. The alt will cost over $140 for a rebuilt one.