sound like the plan. hard to believe they would sell a repair product that cannot be installed to stock specs/standard

 

I'm positive it's possible, there's videos on people removing reluctor rings from other axles on trucks, SUV's, etc. Just nothing on the 10-bolt, nor any specific tool listings.

I'll call Moser tomorrow and see what they have to say, then call the few transmission and axle-specific shops here in town. I'll update here what I find.

Hindsight is 20/20; I should have just bought a 12-bolt and been done with it in the first place.

 

are you rebuilding your 10 bolt ,there should be lots of videos on that,youtube,at the same time you said a shop was working it ,my 10 bolt in the spring comes, i am rebuilding it via the thread hear on the forum then getting a bit more for my car they say 550 hp should be plenty actually my 10 bolt has held up well i have new cover for it so on an 3.42 gears is the plan an a bigger spline i want to say stock is like 28 an the other is 30 + makeing it stronger mu buddie will do mine, if i get to that point ,couse rear ends one need to know real well an i never built a rear end

 

My 10 bolt has some stuff replaced so far. Ring + Pinion, seals, bearings, and differential. It also has a TA Performance girdle-brace cover. Wheel bearings and axles are still stock though.

I had a shop do the install and setup for the gears and diff. The c-clip axles are easy to work with though, so just shy of getting the reluctor gear rings pressed on and off, I'll just handle that.

 

they have the thread hear strengthening the 10 bolt ,its kinda short but get to the point about what one needs to rebuild it for like $550.00

 

Yeah, mine needed repairs and F-Body cars are far and few between in the junkyards locally, especially 95-02 axles. My choice was to replace the parts on mine, or buy a 12-bolt setup. The repairs seemed like the better idea at the time, and ultimately are still cheaper.

-edit-

To clarify, I've followed that list for the most part, the Yukon ring and pinion gears being the exception to my rear axle. Doing the axles and wheel bearings within the next couple weeks once finals are over to fix the shaking problems, and make the car safe again.

I'm just looking forward to getting this thing driving for more than 2 months straight at a time without having to go back up on jack stands, lol.

 

Well, I guess 6LE still had 30% off. Let's see how long it takes to get my new seats and brackets, eh?

-edit-

Wheel bearings and axles replaced, it's finally as smooth as [a car with polyurethane everything] could be.

Next week, seats?

 

Long time no see everyone!

Okay. The 6LE seats suck. The seat back flexes so much it's crazy. What's worse, I found the SAME ONES on eBay for like $170 shipped for a pair. With floor brackets. So, there's something sketchy. Oh well. Live and learn.
Probably going to be looking to make some 2010 SS Camaro seats work in the car, I can get a pair of fronts for about $400 out of some part-out cars here locally. Just gonna have to run a 12v line and make a plug inside the car for them, among other things.

New issue however is that the steering has been getting more and more loose to the point I'm not driving it now. The rack and pinion has a ton of play in it, and lets the car pull all over the place on it's own will when the crown of the road changes or hits any bumps. Already checked steering column and joints, as well as tie rods and ends, everything is tight with no play.

I'll update whenever I can source a reliable place for a rebuilt rack.

 

tie rod ends fail often. have you had somone bounce your steering wheel back and forth while you watch whats flexing. it may be to much toe out,

 

I did, the shaft going to the rack was tight with no play, tie rod ends are still well under 9k miles. There was just disparity between movement on the shaft going in, and the output.