Stereo Problems (Im so lost)
#1
Stereo Problems (Im so lost)
Basic information:
-Car is a '94 Z28 with the factory Bose option (sort of)
-PO attempted to install aftermarket door and mid speakers and HU
-Bose sub is not connected
-Factory wiring looks to be all cut up/re-spliced/etc
-Aftermarket wiring has been run to some of these connections.
-i have no wiring or stero install experience outside of HUs
In short, nothing works right. I have the interior gutted out of the car and I want to get the stereo squared away before I put the interior back together. What are my options? Plus Id really like to get one of those rack mounts and boxes from subthump.com if they will fit.
-Car is a '94 Z28 with the factory Bose option (sort of)
-PO attempted to install aftermarket door and mid speakers and HU
-Bose sub is not connected
-Factory wiring looks to be all cut up/re-spliced/etc
-Aftermarket wiring has been run to some of these connections.
-i have no wiring or stero install experience outside of HUs
In short, nothing works right. I have the interior gutted out of the car and I want to get the stereo squared away before I put the interior back together. What are my options? Plus Id really like to get one of those rack mounts and boxes from subthump.com if they will fit.
#2
Basic information:
-Car is a '94 Z28 with the factory Bose option (sort of)
-PO attempted to install aftermarket door and mid speakers and HU
-Bose sub is not connected
-Factory wiring looks to be all cut up/re-spliced/etc
-Aftermarket wiring has been run to some of these connections.
-i have no wiring or stero install experience outside of HUs
In short, nothing works right. I have the interior gutted out of the car and I want to get the stereo squared away before I put the interior back together. What are my options? Plus Id really like to get one of those rack mounts and boxes from subthump.com if they will fit.
-Car is a '94 Z28 with the factory Bose option (sort of)
-PO attempted to install aftermarket door and mid speakers and HU
-Bose sub is not connected
-Factory wiring looks to be all cut up/re-spliced/etc
-Aftermarket wiring has been run to some of these connections.
-i have no wiring or stero install experience outside of HUs
In short, nothing works right. I have the interior gutted out of the car and I want to get the stereo squared away before I put the interior back together. What are my options? Plus Id really like to get one of those rack mounts and boxes from subthump.com if they will fit.
For $30 you can get a spool of decent wire. If it were me, I'd run new wiring so I knew what I had. With the interior out it's a no brainer
#3
After some playing around I got a head unit wired up and got it to function. The aftermarket kenwoods seem to be functioning ok but the drivers side has a noticeable buzz to it. Also as soon as I turn the volume up the sound cuts out, head unit flashes the word "protect" and then I have to reset it.
If I go buy a new HU/speakers/amp/subs what the best way to run it all together for the best sound quality? (ex. one four channel amp for the speakers and one for the subs?)
If I go buy a new HU/speakers/amp/subs what the best way to run it all together for the best sound quality? (ex. one four channel amp for the speakers and one for the subs?)
#5
Turns out there is a short or blown speaker causing it to trip. I know my factory harness, (the one coming out of the dash that the adapter plugs into to go to the head unit) is pretty well botched. Will this work as a replacement?
So far its the only thing i can find that's not an adapter for an aftermarket unit, which i don't need. I know its not a Bose connector but since I wont be using any factory equipment that's not a problem. I need to start with a good baseline before I can start replacing speakers/wire/etc. Where are my audio experts at?
So far its the only thing i can find that's not an adapter for an aftermarket unit, which i don't need. I know its not a Bose connector but since I wont be using any factory equipment that's not a problem. I need to start with a good baseline before I can start replacing speakers/wire/etc. Where are my audio experts at?
#6
you stated that your interior is removed; run new speaker wire. Why are you looking at a stereo harness? You are making it way too complicated; why?
If you are using an amp(s) and also a roof pounding device (sub) then your original harness is useless anyway. First decide where the components are being installed and then wire accordingly. There is nothing difficult about a + and - to each speaker, especially with the interior already removed.
My daughter's boyfriend was having stereo issues and after 45 minutes I said to heck with it, went out and bought new wire, removed trim pieces and the rear seat and 2 hours later he was completely rewired and back to bumpin.
If you are using an amp(s) and also a roof pounding device (sub) then your original harness is useless anyway. First decide where the components are being installed and then wire accordingly. There is nothing difficult about a + and - to each speaker, especially with the interior already removed.
My daughter's boyfriend was having stereo issues and after 45 minutes I said to heck with it, went out and bought new wire, removed trim pieces and the rear seat and 2 hours later he was completely rewired and back to bumpin.
#7
you stated that your interior is removed; run new speaker wire. Why are you looking at a stereo harness? You are making it way too complicated; why?
If you are using an amp(s) and also a roof pounding device (sub) then your original harness is useless anyway. First decide where the components are being installed and then wire accordingly. There is nothing difficult about a + and - to each speaker, especially with the interior already removed.
My daughter's boyfriend was having stereo issues and after 45 minutes I said to heck with it, went out and bought new wire, removed trim pieces and the rear seat and 2 hours later he was completely rewired and back to bumpin.
If you are using an amp(s) and also a roof pounding device (sub) then your original harness is useless anyway. First decide where the components are being installed and then wire accordingly. There is nothing difficult about a + and - to each speaker, especially with the interior already removed.
My daughter's boyfriend was having stereo issues and after 45 minutes I said to heck with it, went out and bought new wire, removed trim pieces and the rear seat and 2 hours later he was completely rewired and back to bumpin.
#8
I am not sure what exact route you are planning on so I will throw two options at you.
Option 1: head unit + 1 4-channel amp + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amps while splitting it to two wires at some point so that one goes to each amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and amps. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off of your 4-channel amp. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
Option 2: head unit + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and sub amp. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off your head unit speaker wires. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
The critical part of these options is to run new speaker wire. Do not bother with the factory wiring. You do not know what shape it is in and troubleshooting it will take unnecessary time. This also gives you the opportunity to use better wiring for your speakers than what came with the car.
Option 1: head unit + 1 4-channel amp + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amps while splitting it to two wires at some point so that one goes to each amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and amps. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off of your 4-channel amp. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
Option 2: head unit + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and sub amp. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off your head unit speaker wires. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
The critical part of these options is to run new speaker wire. Do not bother with the factory wiring. You do not know what shape it is in and troubleshooting it will take unnecessary time. This also gives you the opportunity to use better wiring for your speakers than what came with the car.
#9
I am not sure what exact route you are planning on so I will throw two options at you.
Option 1: head unit + 1 4-channel amp + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amps while splitting it to two wires at some point so that one goes to each amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and amps. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off of your 4-channel amp. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
Option 2: head unit + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and sub amp. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off your head unit speaker wires. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
The critical part of these options is to run new speaker wire. Do not bother with the factory wiring. You do not know what shape it is in and troubleshooting it will take unnecessary time. This also gives you the opportunity to use better wiring for your speakers than what came with the car.
Option 1: head unit + 1 4-channel amp + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amps while splitting it to two wires at some point so that one goes to each amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and amps. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off of your 4-channel amp. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
Option 2: head unit + 1 sub amp
Identify the power, ground, and constant wires on the existing wire harness. Cut the factory wire harness off and connect those three wires to the wire harness that came with your head unit using some but end connectors. Do not use just electrical tape. Run your remote turn on wire back to your amp. Connect the necessary RCA cables to your head unit and sub amp. Run new speaker wires for the door and sail panel speakers coming directly off your head unit speaker wires. Run the speaker wires from your sub amp to your sub(s). Test everything, put the interior back together, crack open your favorite beer and enjoy your new sound system.
The critical part of these options is to run new speaker wire. Do not bother with the factory wiring. You do not know what shape it is in and troubleshooting it will take unnecessary time. This also gives you the opportunity to use better wiring for your speakers than what came with the car.
#10
Raider, Boone has it correct..plus the fact that electrical tape is far from sufficient for stereo installations(You won't see wires just "taped" together from the factory)
Also, be critical of where You run the speaker,amp,or any other wires.
be sure they won't rub or chaffe on any surface and are secure them properly under carpet and trim pieces.GOOD LUCK!
Also, be critical of where You run the speaker,amp,or any other wires.
be sure they won't rub or chaffe on any surface and are secure them properly under carpet and trim pieces.GOOD LUCK!