Drilled and slotted rotors have no benefit on a street car, except for the Oooooooh-neato factor. Coming to a stop at a red light isn't building up the kind of heat that a race car would. Road track cars on the other hand, are constantly on the brakes, and that's where slotted rotors can make a difference. By the way, the ridges in the slotted rotors will wear the brake pads down faster than smooth rotors will. And for racing cars, cross drilled rotors can actually become a source for stress cracks. So for a street car, save your money and use smooth rotors, unless you're just trying to impress your friends who don't know any better.

 

what can i say. i had new rotors and was not happy with the performance of them so i switched. definite improvement with the power stop rotors. big difference in the rain.

 

^ Was that with new ceramic pads at the same time too, or were they existing pads that were reused with the new rotors?

 

they were new pads both times. cant remember what the first pads where, not ceramic, but were supposed to be performance.

 

Then your "better performance with the power stop rotors" claim has no merit, as the improvement could have been from the ceramic pads alone.

 

Go with the ss lines instead of braided lines. The ss lines are thicker then stock and are street legal. As for slotted and drilled it's a waste of money. If you do auto cross then go for slotted fronts but for rears the solids are just fine. Like they all say ceramics are the biggest improvement. But do some research and find a good brand. I've seen a few ceramic pads leave some red dust on the rims. And yes it's brake dust not rust. But I'm sure those were low end ceramics.

The traction control rpo code is nw9.

 

I know rubber hose and steel braided but what are SS lines?

Way back in school we where told that the drilled rotor where obsolete because "modern" non-asbestos pads to not out gas like the old style pads. Yea, that was in 1985. Slots on the other hand can do a lot including help keeping your brakes from glazing nut at a high wear cost.

 

In this usage SS = Stainless Steel (braided)...

 

Thanks again guys for the feedback.

3800: thanks for the traction control RPO code I couldn't find out what it was.

I think I'm going to go with the rotoworks slotted and Hawks ceramics from the WS6 store. Hawks on Summit are like $20 more front and rear.

The steel braided lines I saw on the WS6 store say they are streetlegal DOT approved but I'm going to hold off on lines for now mine are still good and Midnight isn't thaaat fast yet, lol.

 

Hey Cowboy14, This is the second time you have came into a thread and told the people that are asking the questions to seek professional help. Did it ever occur to you that most of us here can actually perform basic repairs to our cars, a few others can do above basic repairs and a couple of us (me included) can preform any repair of the mechanics or body with out seeking professional help. Do you need to seek professional help? If so great! but unless you can assist others with some viable information please quit telling us to seek professional help, it will not always be best.

Massey