Starter issues
Alright, ive tried to avoid asking but this car is gonna make me repaint the inside of it with my skull if I don't. I've got a 95 camaro, it's a 3.4 v6 with the 5 speed manual (we'llcall her becky). When I got the car the majority of the engine was in the trunk so it's been a complete rebuild (new crank and cam, new pistons and rods, whole nine yards) and for the past month I've had the same problem, it will not start. I've replaced the whole fuel system, the starter, every sensor, hell the only thing left to actually replace is the car itself, but it will not start. At this point the problem seems to be at the starter. So to start with I got a reman starter and popped it on, it made a clunking sound when but it would start with a bit of starting fluid, turns out it needed to be shimmed and that fixed that problem, but then it started turning slow and the ground strap got replaced and that fixed that. Then it started clicking so I got a new starter, like brand new and it seemed like it wanted to work but then decided to stop engaging completely. I've got good voltage, all the teeth on the flywheel and starter are there, removing the shims doesn't fix the issue, the starter works as intended when not on the car, ive no issues along the security wire that I can find and im loosing my mind. A new car would be great but I just can't afford that right now and this is my baby, please tell me I'm missing something easy because I'm about to lose it.
Yes, yes and no, like at this point it's just not even attempting to engage the flywheel.
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October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
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What I would do on an unknown motor that just had work on it. I would pull all the plugs and put a breaker bar on the front of the motor. It should turn like a new motor with compression then try it with the starter. It should crank crazy fast, it will sound completely differently.
The motor should turn over very easily by hand. If not you could check or remove the belt to make sure it not a locked up accessory. If the motor will not turn over freely with no compression its going to need to come back out to see why. It may be a simple fix. The fact it has not started means there can only be light damage.
If everything seems as it should put the plugs back in and do a voltage drop test. Set up you volt meter for DC 0-20 volt ( some meters may have a different ranges). Put the positive lead on the positive side of the battery put the negative lead on the large wire at the starter. The reading in volts should be near Zero. When you crank the car the the volts will go up but the closer to zero the better, The max you should se is .6 volts or 5% loss. Some manufactures want better then that. I have found .8 really slows the cranking and 1.0 can slow it enough to not start. To check the ground its the same thing just run you positive lead from the engine block and your negative lead to the ground side of the battery.
Normally i would do the drop test first but with a recently repaired motor you do not want to play around testing the starter if there is any chance the issue is inside the motor. Go real easy on starter fluid on a newer motor. It will wash down the cylinder walls and who know what else.
The motor should turn over very easily by hand. If not you could check or remove the belt to make sure it not a locked up accessory. If the motor will not turn over freely with no compression its going to need to come back out to see why. It may be a simple fix. The fact it has not started means there can only be light damage.
If everything seems as it should put the plugs back in and do a voltage drop test. Set up you volt meter for DC 0-20 volt ( some meters may have a different ranges). Put the positive lead on the positive side of the battery put the negative lead on the large wire at the starter. The reading in volts should be near Zero. When you crank the car the the volts will go up but the closer to zero the better, The max you should se is .6 volts or 5% loss. Some manufactures want better then that. I have found .8 really slows the cranking and 1.0 can slow it enough to not start. To check the ground its the same thing just run you positive lead from the engine block and your negative lead to the ground side of the battery.
Normally i would do the drop test first but with a recently repaired motor you do not want to play around testing the starter if there is any chance the issue is inside the motor. Go real easy on starter fluid on a newer motor. It will wash down the cylinder walls and who know what else.
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