Security light, wiring looks clean
#1
Security light, wiring looks clean
There calling for snow tomorrow, which means 2 things: I might have the day off school, and the car is going back in the garage. I thought I'd address the security light to keep myself from getting bored.
The security light has been on in my 95 LT1 since I got the car 2 years ago, and I've never had any problems starting the car. From what I have read, I believe this means that the two wires that run to the 'chip' reader of the VATS system have shorted together (As if they simply snapped in the column, the car would not start). I put a piece of tape over my key to confirm that the vats chip is not needed to start the car in it's current state. I then removed the panel under the steering column expecting to find the orange wires (Which I believe to be Vats) intentionally wired together. They were not, and all of the wiring under there appears to be untouched. I unhooked the orange wires at the plug located behind this panel, and the car still started. This I'm assuming means that they were not shorted together inside the steering column.
Now where do I go from here?
I'm assuming that the problem lies where the VATS wires go into the computer that controls the Vats system, but I have no idea where this is. I also could have read something wrong on the internet, and the solid lit 'Security' light could be caused by another problem.
I should have all of the required resistors to properly bypass the VATS system tomorrow, although I would prefer to have the VATS system working since I spent an obscene amount of money to have my key cut :P
If none of this makes any sense at all, I'll just take the security light bulb out of the dash someday.
Thanks for reading this, and thanks for your help!
The security light has been on in my 95 LT1 since I got the car 2 years ago, and I've never had any problems starting the car. From what I have read, I believe this means that the two wires that run to the 'chip' reader of the VATS system have shorted together (As if they simply snapped in the column, the car would not start). I put a piece of tape over my key to confirm that the vats chip is not needed to start the car in it's current state. I then removed the panel under the steering column expecting to find the orange wires (Which I believe to be Vats) intentionally wired together. They were not, and all of the wiring under there appears to be untouched. I unhooked the orange wires at the plug located behind this panel, and the car still started. This I'm assuming means that they were not shorted together inside the steering column.
Now where do I go from here?
I'm assuming that the problem lies where the VATS wires go into the computer that controls the Vats system, but I have no idea where this is. I also could have read something wrong on the internet, and the solid lit 'Security' light could be caused by another problem.
I should have all of the required resistors to properly bypass the VATS system tomorrow, although I would prefer to have the VATS system working since I spent an obscene amount of money to have my key cut :P
If none of this makes any sense at all, I'll just take the security light bulb out of the dash someday.
Thanks for reading this, and thanks for your help!
#2
I came across a thread somewhere that says that once in 'fault-enabled' mode, you need to reset the system after the problem is fixed. Now I wish I would have brought my multimeter with me when I had it torn apart. At least I have something to start with tomorrow though.
#4
The VATS system in the 95 is not part of the BCM. This unit gets the info from the key and then trips 2 relays to allow start up. It also sends a go/nogo signal to the BCM to illuminate the Security light. The VATS module is under the dash but I cant remember where. I think Craby has the book that can show you were. This module can be bypassed easily and it is not under the left side of the dash so you prolly have not seen where it goes looking under that side.
Also remember if you get a VATS unit from a wrecking yard it will be programed to the key of the wrecked car and you will have a 1/16th chance that it will be your key. There is no way to read the code from the module. A new from GM module (if they are still available) will program itself to the first key it reads.
Massey
Also remember if you get a VATS unit from a wrecking yard it will be programed to the key of the wrecked car and you will have a 1/16th chance that it will be your key. There is no way to read the code from the module. A new from GM module (if they are still available) will program itself to the first key it reads.
Massey
#5
Thanks for all the help! If it is a problem with a relay, I'm planning on just pulling the light. The money is needed elsewhere on the car. I will check the resistance of the wires where they plug into the column, to see if it has shorted inside the column. If it isn't and I'm bored enough I'll try to figure out where that relay is. Thanks!
#6
The security light being on in the dash means the system is inoperable. If that was the case (operating like factory), not only would the engine not start, it wouldn't even turn over. I'd say mr. previous owner already bypassed your VATS system.
#7
Thanks for all the help! If it is a problem with a relay, I'm planning on just pulling the light. The money is needed elsewhere on the car. I will check the resistance of the wires where they plug into the column, to see if it has shorted inside the column. If it isn't and I'm bored enough I'll try to figure out where that relay is. Thanks!
I can guarentee that even if it is shorted in the column (broken wires) you will still have a bypassed system. There is no other way for your car to start unless the VATS module has been bypassed and since it has the BCM is posting a nogo signal and your dash light is on.
Massey
#8
My multimeter is telling me that the wires are most likely broken in the column. I was expecting to find a bypass under the kick panel, but it looks untouched there. My plan right now is to find where it was (improperly) bypassed, and put in the right resistance value. I figure it must be bypassed at the relay, but I still have no idea where it is. Thanks!
#9
Well when I first got my car, the light was off and had no problems with it. One day the light turned on and my car wouldn't start. So I cleaned the key and got my car to start and the light turned off. A few days later it turned back on but this time it allowed me to start the car. After that, it never turned off but my car never had problems starting. So I recently just removed the light bulb and now I'm happy.
#10
I can guarentee that even if it is shorted in the column (broken wires) you will still have a bypassed system. There is no other way for your car to start unless the VATS module has been bypassed and since it has the BCM is posting a nogo signal and your dash light is on.
Massey
Massey