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I have been given this car, quite excited about this project.
Plan would be to strip and paint everything, how would this be recommended?
Car is mint except for this.
90k miles on the clock, full service history up to 8yrs ago where it has sat with a cover on it.
3k miles in the last 8yrs.
Plan is to pick up the car with a trailer and bring it home, I have driven it and it goes and stops OK, but the fuel is 8yrs old...
I do not want to drive it 300km home. I want to get it home and drain the tank, and fluids etc
Looks like mostly just surface rust, I don't see any major damage there.
There are a lot of rust removal products available if you can to get it lifted up and start cleaning it.
If I was to remove everything a bit at a time, clean up the parts, paint and reassemble with new bushes and parts were needed.
I would like to lower the car 3/4 inch....
What mags are these?
Are these standard wheels?
Plan is to use this post as my project page, is that a good idea?
Can one Corner be done at a time?
[img alt="what wheel / Rims are these ?
Are they standard?"]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/camaroforums.com-vbulletin/1272x927/wheel_82c58e91491986305e563ed64286f5e8952f52eb.png[/img] what wheel / Rims are these ? Are they standard?
I would use a USB camera on the tanks if you want the car to last the long time and you are worried about getting parts. You are looking for rust. Rust will be caused by fuel quality, more alcohol, more rust. I have seen cars with rusty tanks and I have replaced the tanks with used tanks from the same model that were like new. The last one I did was my GTO. The tank I got was off a car with less miles, it sat more but was like new, mine would have needed the whole bottom of the tank resealed. If you have already started the car then it would not matter much just get a few fuel filters and replace them relatively quickly. If you have rust it can always be repaired. Here in the US car culture, we tend to replace tanks but in every other industry they are just resealed chemically.
At minimum: I would suck all the fuel out with a non-electric vacuum system. I use a system that runs off the air compressor but a cheap hand pump is fine, then replace the gas. Still do the filters. The new gas should dilute the bad gas in the system. Your goal should be to keep as much rust out of the EFI as possible. Your pump and injectors will not be forgiving.
At the age the car is now I would be concerned with the brake system. If you have records check to see the last time the brake fluid was replaced. If it was around 10 years ago you may be good. If it has not been changed, I would suspect it is time to redo the soft parts of the brake system. Hoses, Calipers, Master cylinder should be rebuilt or replaced depending on access to parts. We have had overseas owners complain about a lack of parts.
At minimum: Driving test: drive the car normal then pump the brakes. The car should stay in a nice straight line. If it does not that means a brake fluid flow issue. In my opinion it is easier to rebuild a brake system then try to diagnose what is wrong with it. Last is the stomp test. Park your car somewhere you can work on it if needed. Start the engine and let it idle do not put it in gear. With both feet push the brake as hard as you can, you should feel the seat start to flex. This should have no real effect on the brakes. If they go to the floor, you have an issue. If they POP and go to the floor you do not have brakes anymore. After that inspect all the brakes for signs of leaking. If you pass these tests the hydraulic system is functioning today. Now change your brake fluid. You want to suck all the dirt can crap from the master cylinder. Put in clean fluid and blead the system until you see nice clean fluid at each brake.
How important is this? Brake fluid draws in moisture over time. If you take your car to a racetrack that does tech safety inspection they do not do much for 100% stock class, they will do the stomp test and test the water content of your brake fluid. If you have not changed the fluid in the last 5 year you will most likely fail (assuming the car was not in a desert)
The reason for the Stomp test. This is part of my States yearly safety inspection. It is required by law. You are trying to emulate someone in an emergency stop that is panicking. In a new car your seat will break before the brake system will fail.
Last thing and on your car one of the most important Pressure test the coolant system. First not running then running. You want to take a close look at the water pump weep hole. Even if you just see a drop of coolant coming from the weep hole you will need a water pump. If it is all clear then change the coolant. FYI The water pump is right next to the ignition system and if any coolant gets in there you will have a big expensive job ahead of you. You should check this weep hole 4 times a year or every oil change. Search optispark replacement to get an idea what I am talking about.
Rusty - under car... 1995 Z28 - Recommendations?
