The rear bushing on my left front lower control arm has failed. I somehow persuaded the bushing bolt out and enough nuts off to twist the bushing clear, but the old bushing is rusted/welded in place and wailing on it with a hammer isn't doing much (not that I have a lot of room to swing). I've got it soaking in PB Blast right now, but was looking for advice on how the #@^@# to get the old bushing out of the LCA. Tips? How've ya'll gotten this off?

 

^ Whack off harder.

Here's what GM says:

Document ID# 716149
2002 Chevrolet Camaro
Lower Control Arm Bushings Replacement Rear Bushing

Tools Required
J 21474-3 Screw Assembly
J 21474-4 1/2 Inch Nut
J 21474-5 Control Arm Bushing Receiver
J 39874 Lower Control Arm Bushing Receiver
J 39931 Lower Control Arm Bushing Receiver

Disassembly Procedure

Remove the lower control arm. Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement .


Remove the lower control arm rear bushing from the lower control arm (1):
Install J 39874 onto J 21474-3 with the sealed end of J 39874 facing the head of the screw.
Run J 21474-3 through the control arm bushing, through the control arm, and into the small end of J 39931 .
Install the thrust washer onto J 21474-3 with the seam facing toward the control arm.
Install J 21474-4 onto J 21474-3 . Align all parts with the control arm bushing.
Tighten until you are able to remove the control arm bushing. The bushing may make a popping noise upon removal.

 

Remove the LCA -- you're going to need an alignment anyway.

Use one of the big c-clamp type balljoint press kits that Advance will rent to you or find a shop with a hydraulic press.

Those bushings were totally shot on my 94. The forward ones were damn near *impossible* to get out due to rust on my car.

Keep in mind that the voids in the rubber on the new bushing must be oriented inboard/outboard (according to tech support at Moog).

 

I got both bushing nuts off (thanks to PB Blast and my favorite tool, my 18" ratcheting breaker bar!), but I couldn't remove the forward bolt due to fouling the tie rod bellows, so I was trying to work around it to avoid completely removing the tie rod from the steering rack. (With the nut off and bolt partially extracted, I had quite a bit of play and was able to pivot it to what you see in the photo above.)

...and then, I realized I can just move it out of the way by turning the steering wheel. LOL! I picked up a balljoint press kit from advance auto last night, but I don't have enough clearance to use it. I'm going go-kart racing with some guys from the local autocross club, but I'll see if I can press it out this afternoon. Thanks again for the tips!

 

As a last resort you could burn the bushing out with a propane torch, but you need to be careful not to overheat the metal parts and cause them to lose their temper.

 

I got the control arm out, got it on the press, even hit it with a blowtorch then water 4 times, but no joy on removing the bushing My last resort is to burn out the rubber, cut it with a hacksaw, and pry it out that way. Before I get that desperate, any other suggestions?

 

Got it! I cut out most of what what was left of the rubber with a sawzall, and went to town on the collar with my grandfather's homemade steel chisels- popped it out in no time. The ball joint press slipped the new bushing right in. Should just be a matter of reassembly tomorrow, and she'll be ready to hit the road again!

Thanks for all your help everyone

 

so that's the way it works

Control Arm Bushing

 

What is the number of Front Lower Control Arm Bushing?

 

According to the GM parts manual, GM didn't sell that bushing separately. To get it you had to buy the whole lower control arm assembly.

Moog Corp does make the bushing but it's only available as part of a kit hat includes both front and rear bushings. The number is K6490.

Raybestos Corp sell the front bushing separately. Part #5651112