White smoke would not show up until the head gasket was real bad. The over flow tank is under your battery, I am not sure what you by the feed into the raditor. There should be a hose from below you rad cap to your over flow tank.

 

nevermind, i had a dumb moment. i was thinking if the car needed coolant at some point in time, it pulled from the tank, not pushed into it when it got hot even though that makes more sense. haha. dont mind the special moment.

 

[QUOTE=Gorn;659841]Just to clear up a few facts for anyone following along.


The brown in your radiator is not rust. It is residue for the original orange Dex cool crap the factory put in the car. The brown “mud” setting in the bottom of your radiator can cause up to 50% of your radiator to “not work”.




GM didnt start using Dex Cool in their cars until 96 and later. His car is a 94, which came with green glycol.... so if its brownish colored, its rust. The car is also 20 years old now, and who knows whats been run through the system? If someone ran plain water in it for a while, or an imbalanced mix of mostly water, there can be a good amount of rusted metal in the block and on any metal in the water pump.

 

so long as someone didnt put some of that orange crab in there in the meantime.

 

[QUOTE=2Z's;659909]
Easy enough to test, dip a magnet in the coolant. If the brown stuff wipes off easly is Dex cool. If it really wants to stick to the magnet it is ferrous oxide (rust)

 

Alright, so here is a little update. First off, I already did the coolant flush unfortunately so I cant do the test.. which reallys sucks since Ii would have liked to know if it was the water pump or not. Anyhow, I noticed that the guy before me had done something to that little 3" hose by the water pump. Yea, I couldnt tell if it was leaking when under pressure, I didnt bother waiting. It was torn at the top, pinched, the top was blown up off of the pipe. If that wasnt off enough, he did apparently mess with it at one point. Instead of the normal clamps that come on it, there was an intake screw on clamp. So I got the actual clamps and another one of these hoses. After I did that, I took it out for a drive, got it warm, then put it in the driveway running, and it didnt heat up. Now, I didnt have a problem before hand until a couple hours later either, so Im not positive that this worked but so far, Ive noticed a difference in the hoses. Before all the hoses were stiff but you could still squeeze throw them pretty easily and only got warm not hot. Now they are stiff and hot. My heat also started working a lot earlier than normal. Now this is the weird part, that hose wasnt clogged when I took it off, and I never noticed it leaking. So why would everything magically change when I replaced this part? Its possible this was leaking and I would have never know though, because I did see how the fluid fell when I took it off. It went into the engine and dripped down in all these areas that are hard to see. But that is the only thing I can possibly think of as to why everything would start working again. I just missed the leaking because it dripped down in the cubby hole by the water pump. Well, we will see if that did it or not after an hour run tomorrow.

 

I am pleased as punch to hear that you know what you are doing.

My reading comprehension skills may be lacking because it sure seemed to me like you said you installed a fan switch and removed the air dam. A lot smarter people than me engineered the air dam for vettes and camaros for a reason and I'm not one to question their design.

With respect to being liked or disliked..................on a forum; are you actually serious?

feel free to go back and read any responses I've made and point out .........and here comes the operative words...........factually incorrect replies I give.

hmmm, so we have several topics embedded within this thread

one- an individual who installed 180 thermo and wonders why the heat doesn't work that great

two- an individual who misleads someone to believe that installing a fan switch is an acceptable replacement to the factory air dam. Whether or not the words were typed exactly that way that is in effect the message given

third- one of those posters who made the false claim then attacks me and accuses me of being technically incorrect. I give you credit for having a large set because you gave me a good laugh; and that's all that you accomplished.

I just hope the person who was supplied the questionable suggestion will research posts about the air dam and make his/her own decision

 

You still dont know how to read well do you. Your "facts" are all in the wrong places.
But Im not going to play who has the bigger ***** and continuing to argue.
No reason to bother making myself look foolish being childish fighting on a forum. I rather keep this forums standards a little higher than that.
Good day to you sir.

 

94, I missed that earlier post of yours, or I would have chimed in earlier. First let me say let's keep this civilized, we're all here to help each other.
In regards to the air dam....take a look at the front grill of my car, or any others like it. Driving on the open road naturally crams air through the radiator. Now look at your car....no front open grille. The air dam hangs down, grabs moving air, and directs it up and through the radiator. Also, while driving down the road, the electric fan is useless and not needed when you have fast moving air coming through. Electric fan for city driving, air dam for highway driving.

 

Yea, I was trying to keep it civilized, but it didn't work, so Im just stopping the arguing all together. And the air dam was never an issue. Where the whole idea came from that Im having trouble with that, I have no clue. He just screwed up and jumbled everything I said.

The way the air dam came up was this. Remember my old camaro Sheila? I redid the whole cooling and heating system on her. So much so, that I never needed the air dam. It wasnt even there because it broke off. But Sheila never had a problem with overheating ever again. I put the fan to a switch because the camaro doesn't turn it on soon enough in most cases and I know the relay goes very often in these cars and I don't want to risk it. Im more secure knowing when its on. I know the function of the air dam and that it helps these cars greatly because the front end is so closed up, the only point was, I didnt have it in Sheila and didnt need it.

Now in Sydney, yes I need it and still have it. Now I made an update of my original problem, I wonder if anyone has even seen it, because this other guy moved the focal point so much.

Back on the subject, I will include an update after I make the 2 hour run to get my girlfriend from college today. Hopefully the 3" coolant tube being replaced with the proper clamps helped. We will see.