The V6s that come in F-bodies are good motors. the 2.8 and 3.1 are solid motors that can hit 250,000 miles with no problem. Cheap and easy to work on for the most part they are not bad engines. The 3.4L has a little more get up and go but falls into the same boat as its brothers. Solid motors but just dont make a lot of horse power. The 3.8 on the other hand does have some performance ability. They also can last 200,000 plus with no problems when taken care of.

Its just the fact if you are trying to build a fast car the LT1 and LS1 are hard platforms to beat. They respond well to mods and are easy to modify even for guys with little mechanical experience. Its kind of that bang for buck factor. Why spend 4K to turbo a 3.8 when you could sell the 3.8 and take that 4K to buy a LS1 that makes about the same power and can support another 150hp above that before it even starts getting close to its limits.

 

You know, the nice thing about a 'Vert is you don't need it fast to enjoy it -- the open air is great.

Your next step should be a cat-back, IMHO. Borla Adjustable will be the most fun, and a MUCH better V6 sound -- add a DMH E-Valve and you can adjust from the driver seat...

Apart from speed, look into better handling -- shocks (SLP Bilsteins) and SS Sways first -- for a daily driver, you will have that much more fun driving it.

 

you can always swap the motor in your current car. 6.0/4l80 swaps can be had for 12-1500 dollars around here and its not that hard to swap the car out.

 

How is that not hard? There's so much electronics in these cars you'd be testing and rewiring stuf for ever. Unless you have a write up on how to do everything. In the 1-3 gen cars they are easier.

 

u have a Z and swappin in another GenIII motor. He has a v6. This is not at all an easy swap.

 

I'm not sure where you guys are getting that its very hard to do this swap. If you have a complete dropout (meaning ecu, wiring harness motor, trans) its NOT that hard of a swap.

Depending on the year of the OP's car, there may some little things that need changed, but it the car is 99+ its a fairly simple swap from the v6 to the ls1.

 

Show me where you can swap a 6.0 for freaking 1200-1500 bucks. A LQ9 truck engine is going to cost you that alone if you get a good deal on one. That does not include motor mounts, cross member, headers, ECU, harness, etc. I mean hell even a used LS1 is about 1200-2000 depending on condition just for the motor.

The 4L80 is not going to be a easy swap. Your going to need a different cross member, driver shaft, fly wheel, and torque converter to make it drive right.

Might as well include a 9inch or 12 bolt to that list too since the stock one isnt going to live very long.

Most LSX swaps you do your self are going to cost over 6K unless you already have a LSX car (like swapping a LQ9 into a LS1 car). If you are not doing every thing your self expect to pay over 10K because its not a easy or cheap swap at all.

 

Once again good luck finding a full drop out for that price. Not sure but a front clip for a LS1 sells from 2500-4000 so i dont know where you are going to find a LS2 or L92 with a 4L80 for that price. Even a LQ9 i think is going to be higher then that.

 

First, I'm not sure about your area, but 6.0/4L80 dropouts can be had around here pretty cheap. We just bought one with 105k miles on it for 1500 bucks out the door. We find the motors fairly often for 3-1200 dollars depending on what you want. 5.3's can be had for as little as 250 bucks running, remember I DIDN'T say an ls2/3/7 I said an LSx motor

a quick search gives me 3 6.0 motors for as much as 1200 bucks, thats asking price, NOT selling price.

6.0 #1

6.0 + 4l80 = 1200 bucks

6.0 1000 dollars

Complete 6.0 1k bucks

That was me searching for literally 30 seconds, there are deals to be had out there, some legwork on your part might be needed, but if you're on a budget, its 100% doable.

As for the 4l80 in the camaro, we have 2 cars locally running them without issue, nothing different is needed to swap them in, maybe MINOR hammering to make it fit, but nothing thats out of bounds of the shade tree mechanic.

Also, keep in mind that ALL 6.0 motors had the flexplate (NOT flywheel) for 4L80e so bolting that up to the motor is cake, no worries there. Yes, you'll need a driveshaft, but any swap is going to require that.

Finally, a rear end is something that should be considered, but is not required. Plenty of guys use the stock rears in those cars until they can afford something better. An auto is going to be softer on drivetrain parts anyways, as you aren't getting the shock you would see from a stick car.

See my above quotes, also DON'T put words in my mouth. I specifically said 6.0/4l80, LS2's never came with a 4l80, an Iron block 4.8/5.3/6.0 can be had significantly cheaper than the aluminum alternatives, weighing maybe 50-60lbs more and providing the same performance for half the cost. It pays to open your eyes, deals are out there, you can do the swap very cheaply, especially if its going into an fbucket where parts are plentiful. Trust me on this, theres more than 1 v6 car running around with an LSx in it that were done for half of what you're proposing

 

To add to me previous statement, a stock Fbody LS1 k-member will 100% work with a v6 car. They have the same mounting points on either car. So that takes care of motor mounts and a k-member. From there, you can use stock 6.0 manifolds or find a pair of fbody headers for 2-300 bucks.

Hell, I'm selling a pair of pacesetter 1 3/4 headers RIGHT NOW for 240 bucks and people are telling me I'm asking too much. A stock ls1 k-member WITH mounts can be had for 50-100 bucks.

Before you start making accusations, do some research, its not this insurmountable task you guys are making it out to be, remember, not much changed between the 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder cars. Especially comparing the 99+ v6 vs. v8 cars.







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