first step- im assuming the "2 pin connector" is the one with a pink wire and a black wire the test light did turn on....

next step- probe "3 way conector" there was one with 5 wires and one with 2 wires and then the one with pink/black... i probed the one with 5 wires because it had letters for each wire on connector... i probed A&C, with ignition OFF it had 86 ohm, with ignition ON it had about 1050 ohm


next step- my volt meter has 500V~ or 200V~ and tried both no reading.... then i tried the other V with a line and three dots under it, set to 200m and got about 140.2 ...

so then the next step would be replace ICM, which is BRAND NEW so no point in replacing it

acording to the wiring diagram you gave next to the trouble shooting it says i was testing the "ignition control bypass" wire and the "tach signal" wire... is that correct?

thanks again for the help craby and everyone..... any ideas what to do next? (unless i tested something the wrong way and need to retest)

 

you want to test the connector with two wires.

 

alright i tested the connector with a yellow wire and a black wire, im getting about 980 ohm, next- i set it to 200m and im getting 4.2-9 while cranking... the cam sensor is only a couple months old, and the crank according to the troubleshooting thing is fine...., what next?

 

i just had all three coil packs tested at autozone and the primary on all three was within spec but all three secondary were BELOW spec. 5.8,5.7,5.7 spec is 6.0-11.0... he said hes only seen the secondary test low once and cant remember what it means? ((he also pulled a brand new one off the shelf to see what it would read and it showed 8.4)) he said they usually test out high like 20.5 or something when there bad... does anybody know what it means when there low? are they bad?

i also had the ICM tested (even though its brand new) just incase something shorted it out or bad from the start etc... and it PASSED

 

well you could try to find someone with the same coil in there car a switch to see what happens. or could buy one new one and see if it will fire. might want to ohm the ground wires on the ignition and see if theres an issue with the ground.

 

i just orderd three new coil pack's ($53 total) for ordering three at once, and im gonna test the ground and go over everything before putting them in

 

ok i just replaced all three coil pack's,and the ICM,plugs,plug wires are new but NO SPARK!! i also just got my NOID light's (injector tester) in the mail and so i tested the injectors and there NOT firing, they do have power to them i tested with test light there just not firing...
also the rpm gauge doesnt move when cranking anymore?

 

be a good idea to ohm all your wire harnesses to check for shorts or breaks. have you tried unplugging the maf.

 

After reading this a couple times, it seems to me that you might be experiencing more than one problem. You say you have no spark and you have no injector signal and you said that the rpm guage does not move when cranking anymore.

The way I read the trouble shooting flow chart, the rpm guage should not have been moving while cranking. After plugging and unplugging and testing, if that has changed, I would double check to make sure that all the fuses are still good and you have accidentially shorted one to ground causing it to blow. Just my opinion but you have not done anything to cause that to change.

You state that you have test 3x sensor and all is good.

I would unplug all the wires from the PCM and look at each pin to ensure that none are bent or broken. If all of them are in good shape, I think I would revisit the key cylinder and verify that it was installed properly.

For "engine does not start" condition in ALLDATA, it mentions disconnecting the PCM and with the ignition on, probing ckts 340 and 439 to ground and verifying the light is on for both ckts. If they are, it is pointing to faulty PCM grounds and if not, an open in that ckt.

If I read the info regarding the PCM connections correctly, all of the above mentioned issues are controlled by the "C" connector on the PCM. 3x signal, fuel enable signal, PCM ground, camshaft sensor signal as well as the injector signals.

 

There is one other test at the beginning to test the Theft Deterrent Module if the security light comes on for about 5 seconds when key is turned to the on position.

Disconnect theft deterrent module (tdm) and with the key in the run position use a DVM to measure voltage between the tdm connection terminal A3 and ground to see if you have +5 VDC

If no - check ckt 229 for an open or short between the tdm connection A3 and the PCM.

If yes- reconnect the tdm and with the key in the RUN position, check for voltage of +2.5VDC. If no, replace tdm. If yes, refer to "engine cranks but will not start" chart A3 under computer and controls diagnostis.