my engine swap progress (3.4 to 5.7)
#12
ok ill just go over the major problems that i encountered. first off was the engine mounts which were custom made by a local welding shop.
Next the drive shaft had to be lengthened by 4.5 inches
Then I had to make a custom torque arm mount (dont have a pic but i can take one)
After that it was just any small problems you run into.
I re did the gauges with all new autometer gauges.
The interior was very dirty! it cleans up nicely though.
This is the newest picture i have from under the hood but it looks a little different now.
Next i did all the switches and wiring etc.
If you cant read it, it goes start, gauge lights, fan, fuel pump
Next major problem was the driver side header. My rigged up mounts got in the way of the collector so the exhaust place had to cut the pacesetter header up and redo it to get a collectore on.
Exhaust is custom that consists of electric cutout after the y then a dynomax bullet over the axle then ys into the cherry bomb tips..
I almost forgot the new hood that was needed! i got a 4in cowl hood (hasnt been painted yet) got it off ebay and it doesnt fit right but o well.
all in total it cost about 5gs. feel free to ask any other questions.
Next the drive shaft had to be lengthened by 4.5 inches
Then I had to make a custom torque arm mount (dont have a pic but i can take one)
After that it was just any small problems you run into.
I re did the gauges with all new autometer gauges.
The interior was very dirty! it cleans up nicely though.
This is the newest picture i have from under the hood but it looks a little different now.
Next i did all the switches and wiring etc.
If you cant read it, it goes start, gauge lights, fan, fuel pump
Next major problem was the driver side header. My rigged up mounts got in the way of the collector so the exhaust place had to cut the pacesetter header up and redo it to get a collectore on.
Exhaust is custom that consists of electric cutout after the y then a dynomax bullet over the axle then ys into the cherry bomb tips..
I almost forgot the new hood that was needed! i got a 4in cowl hood (hasnt been painted yet) got it off ebay and it doesnt fit right but o well.
all in total it cost about 5gs. feel free to ask any other questions.
#17
Part of doing something like that is the fun of the project, and saying it can be done. And look at how accessible the engine is, and simple to work on too.
One question...how do you get to the distributor, remove the radio?
One question...how do you get to the distributor, remove the radio?
#18
Its not too hard. you pull up to a lift, put jackstands under the kmember, then unbolt the kmember, Then simply push the "up" button on the lift, and now you have great access to the distributor! haha
#19
That's probably still faster than getting an optispark out. I spose if you wanted to, you could put a trap door on the dash. Hey, that would make timing the engine on the fly a real breeze!
#20
ok guys i need more power. im going to put new heads on. But im going to keep my cam. its a edelbrock performer cam with like .3ish lift. What heads and rocker arms will give me more lift and how much hp could i get with new heads? and what brand heads?? (links welcome!!)