My 2000 Camaro SS Convertible
#21
What shocks do you have? I assume SLP Bilsteins with those Eibachs?
Might want to look into some welded UMI subframe connectors -- make a HUGE difference on 'Verts -- rumor has it UMI may finally release 3-point 'Vert SFRs this summer -- I have their 2pt and love them -- more power to the wheels and better cornering, less body flex.
Also look into a Watts Link, definitely my next suspension upgrade on my SS 'Vert:
FAYS2 Suspension page Watts Link page 6
Strano Performance Parts - Part Details
Might want to look into some welded UMI subframe connectors -- make a HUGE difference on 'Verts -- rumor has it UMI may finally release 3-point 'Vert SFRs this summer -- I have their 2pt and love them -- more power to the wheels and better cornering, less body flex.
Also look into a Watts Link, definitely my next suspension upgrade on my SS 'Vert:
FAYS2 Suspension page Watts Link page 6
Strano Performance Parts - Part Details
So the UMI subframe connectors will basically make it handle better? Why are they different on convertibles than coupes? Differences between 3 and 2 point?
What will the Watts link do for me? To clarify, I'm not going to be racing this car at all (that I see looking ahead), or tracking it. Will these upgrades basically just help handling?
Also guessing I wouldn't be installing these myself...
Looking at one of the sheets, it says labor was done for "weld-in subframe connectors".
Also on the Eibach thing, it has some numbers, I'm guess telling what types of springs/what they are set to?
3870.14 on box
104964
3370.002 -- Front
113047
3870.001 --Rear
104964
3370.002 -- Front
113047
3870.001 --Rear
Last edited by Guitar; 05-29-2011 at 02:16 PM.
#22
What color are the shocks? Snap some pics -- Bilstein & Koni are yellow, stocker de Carbon/Delphi are orange...
SFRs will be noticeable on a 'Vert, you have no top, and these tie the subframes together, increasing frame rigidity -- the car will feel better constructed over bumps. 'Verts do have some additional reinforcements than coupes do, but they are inadequate. 3 pt also ties in cross-bracing to the center of the car. Welding will be more rigid than bolted.
Watts Link is all handling -- something you will notice in daily driving, like on/off ramps at speed. You can install them easily yourself, just time consuming:
Fays 2 Watts Link - LS1TECH
SFRs will be noticeable on a 'Vert, you have no top, and these tie the subframes together, increasing frame rigidity -- the car will feel better constructed over bumps. 'Verts do have some additional reinforcements than coupes do, but they are inadequate. 3 pt also ties in cross-bracing to the center of the car. Welding will be more rigid than bolted.
Watts Link is all handling -- something you will notice in daily driving, like on/off ramps at speed. You can install them easily yourself, just time consuming:
Fays 2 Watts Link - LS1TECH
#23
Best image I can get:
The car, while driving, feels very rigid. You can really feel bumps at high speeds, especially on the highway. Driving too and from Raleigh from where I am, the highway has a lot of breaks, and each one was really bad going over it. Kept waking up my mother when I was driving. My sister is coming down in June, and has a bad back, and I'm afraid of taking my car to go get her at the airport because it might not feel so great during the ride for her.
The car, while driving, feels very rigid. You can really feel bumps at high speeds, especially on the highway. Driving too and from Raleigh from where I am, the highway has a lot of breaks, and each one was really bad going over it. Kept waking up my mother when I was driving. My sister is coming down in June, and has a bad back, and I'm afraid of taking my car to go get her at the airport because it might not feel so great during the ride for her.
#26
WS6 Store - Your #1 Source for F-body Performance Parts and Accessories
Would those be some good shocks to get? Night and day difference?
Konis are expensive. I'd rather not pay $200 a shock.
Would those be some good shocks to get? Night and day difference?
Konis are expensive. I'd rather not pay $200 a shock.
Last edited by Guitar; 05-29-2011 at 06:41 PM.
#27
Koni's are adjustable, and the ideal for lowering springs -- other non-adjustables' life may be hastened with lowering springs. Are your Eibachs the SLP version?
SLP Bilsteins are the next best option, but not ideal for lowering springs...
SLP Bilsteins are the next best option, but not ideal for lowering springs...
#29
3870.14 on box
104964
3370.002 -- Front
113047
3870.001 --Rear
104964
3370.002 -- Front
113047
3870.001 --Rear
So you'd have to get some shocks that can handle lowering springs.
Stock shocks probably won't be able handle the those springs for long...
Oh and nice car!
#30
Eibach 3870.14 Pro-Kit Lowering Kit
Might have helped for me to Google the number.
Damnit, I do NOT want the stock shocks f---ing up while driving, but I'd also rather not pay $900 for a set of them.
Might have helped for me to Google the number.
Damnit, I do NOT want the stock shocks f---ing up while driving, but I'd also rather not pay $900 for a set of them.
Last edited by Guitar; 05-29-2011 at 09:55 PM.