Manual Transmission Issues. Need expert help!
#1
Manual Transmission Issues. Need expert help!
OK, I'm not a noob so let me explain what's been going on first.
I have a 95 Camaro 3.4L 5spd T5 transmission. My transmission was rebuilt recently. My issue is as follows:
- Clutch pedal feels very loose with little resistance
- Won't go into gear. Only by double-clutching repeatedly or getting it to high enough RPM it will go in gear.
- Feels like the clutch isn't engaging
What's been changed:
- Clutch has less than 2000km on it and worked fine before taking the tranny out.
- New slave cylinder put in, and bled properly.
- The slave moves the rod (actuator) as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed.
- New throwout bearing was also put in
- Clutch master cylinder is working fine, no leaks
What could the issue be? It's almost like the slave isn't pushing the fork far out enough to engage the clutch. Are there any adjustments? And advice would be helpful!
I have a 95 Camaro 3.4L 5spd T5 transmission. My transmission was rebuilt recently. My issue is as follows:
- Clutch pedal feels very loose with little resistance
- Won't go into gear. Only by double-clutching repeatedly or getting it to high enough RPM it will go in gear.
- Feels like the clutch isn't engaging
What's been changed:
- Clutch has less than 2000km on it and worked fine before taking the tranny out.
- New slave cylinder put in, and bled properly.
- The slave moves the rod (actuator) as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed.
- New throwout bearing was also put in
- Clutch master cylinder is working fine, no leaks
What could the issue be? It's almost like the slave isn't pushing the fork far out enough to engage the clutch. Are there any adjustments? And advice would be helpful!
#2
Did you have your flywheel turned? If so, then you may need a shim to go between the crank and the flywheel, to make up for the difference. The problem here is that the starter engagement changes. The ring gear is moved farther away.
No adjustments can be made to the clutch pushrod. IF the slave cyl. rod had an adjusting mechanism it would be great. Some foriegn cars have them.
No adjustments can be made to the clutch pushrod. IF the slave cyl. rod had an adjusting mechanism it would be great. Some foriegn cars have them.
#4
Did you have your flywheel turned? If so, then you may need a shim to go between the crank and the flywheel, to make up for the difference. The problem here is that the starter engagement changes. The ring gear is moved farther away.
No adjustments can be made to the clutch pushrod. IF the slave cyl. rod had an adjusting mechanism it would be great. Some foriegn cars have them.
No adjustments can be made to the clutch pushrod. IF the slave cyl. rod had an adjusting mechanism it would be great. Some foriegn cars have them.
When we took the tranny out, we didn't touch the clutch at all. How would the ring gear moved?
@Craby, I did pump the clutch lots and bled it for 2 hours. As soon as I push the pedal it moves the rod in the tranny so I know there's not an air-lock problem.
#5
I'd replace the master cylinder, looks like it's narrowed down to that. It can "leak" internally where the seals aren't pushing/holding the fluid with enough pressure. When you were pumping the pedal like crazy, did it get stiffer, then drop off again if you held it down or then gave a single pump? That would be either the master or slave cylinder. And since you already replaced the slave.....
#6
I forgot to mention that I replaced the slave cylinder thinking that was the problem. The old slave was fine. Everything worked properly before taking the tranny out. I have no drop in clutch fluid level, and the slave pushes the rod in the tranny as soon as I push on the clutch pedal. How would the master cylinder go bad from just taking the tranny out and putting it back in?
#7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,362
I forgot to mention that I replaced the slave cylinder thinking that was the problem. The old slave was fine. Everything worked properly before taking the tranny out. I have no drop in clutch fluid level, and the slave pushes the rod in the tranny as soon as I push on the clutch pedal. How would the master cylinder go bad from just taking the tranny out and putting it back in?
One thing I am not clear on. You have to fight to get it in gear or even pump to go it, but once it is in gear and you go does it work good, grab or feel like its not engaged/slipping)
#8
It's not engaging. From 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc. It's luck of the draw for it to go in gear from a stop, and while driving it seems like the clutch isn't engaging ot the throwout bearing isn't being thrown out far enough.
#9
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,362
Maybe it is just the wording. In my head when a clutch is engaged the car goes. When you shift you disengage the clutch, shift gears then re-engage it. But If I understand what you are saying there is no abnormal slippage.
If I remember right the 3.4 has an external slave cylinder. The first thing I would want to check is there any slop at the connection between the slave and the fork. You have limited travel and if some of that limited travel is being used by slop you need to figure out where the slop is coming from.
There is not chance you dropped something between the clutch and pressure plate? If something would get embedded in the clutch (like a pc of a pilot bearing) it would cause it to not disengage completely.
If I remember right the 3.4 has an external slave cylinder. The first thing I would want to check is there any slop at the connection between the slave and the fork. You have limited travel and if some of that limited travel is being used by slop you need to figure out where the slop is coming from.
There is not chance you dropped something between the clutch and pressure plate? If something would get embedded in the clutch (like a pc of a pilot bearing) it would cause it to not disengage completely.