Im going to buy a jack and jack stands. I have a 1994 camaro and a 1984 f150 so i want them to be kinda universal and work for both. Here are the ones i have found. The only thing is they only come with two in the box and i dont see how if you jacked up the front and put the two under there how it would be steady on the stands if the car was at a angle. So I would have to put the car on all four just to do a oil change or i dont see how. But here are the sets i picked out which one should i get. The only thing is they dont sell the same stands in the combo apart so i would have different jack stands supporting different heights. Which one should i buy.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-ton...88000P?prdNo=4
2-1/4 ton Floor Jack Set with 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands- Craftsman-Tools-Mechanics & Auto Tools-Lift Equipment & Jacks

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To your sturdy question with a car on just two jack stands, you set the parking brake (if the front is being lifted) and chalk one or both of the other wheels with something, a big rock or piece of wood works perfect. But, in reality, those are just precautions for a worst case scenario. The weight of the car on the jack stands is 99.99% of the time more than enough to keep the car sturdy. Trust me, I've done it with two on both concrete and gravel, never once had a problem.

To which the get, if it were me, I'd get the 3 ton jack. It's cheap insurance in case you ever get a heavier vehicle. You also know that since it's rated for a max of 3 tons, it's going to be more than enough to lift either of your vehicles. It also has a higher lifting range which will come in handy for the Camaro and a creeper! For a $160, that's a steal! And you can get jack stands like that separately at a local auto parts store or Walmart. Might not be the same color, but who cares.

 

I just wasnt sure if the car being at a angle how they would sit on the stand and not be to much weight for them to fall.

 

Nope. You'll be fine. Just chalk the wheels as extra assurance. I'll actually be having my car sitting at an angle in a little bit when I do my oil change. Having it on four jacks stands is safer though and you get a better look underneath the whole car, but not required.

 

Okay i think i will buy the three ton ones. Is the ratchet style good, because i heard if it is bumped it could fall down which is why they make ratchet with pin stand.

 

i didnt look at the links because im on my fone but try to get an aluminum jack (best investment ive ever made) also 4 stands are really nice to have. and if you can get a 4 pump jack, that way you dont have to spend all day getting the jack up to the frame/pinch. ohh and a couple 4x4x4 wood blocks are really nice to have around too.

 

I have that same Craftsman 3 ton set; its a nice setup and would recommend it for the money.

The car isn't going any where on two stands; as the others said the weight of the vehicle keeps it from going any where (also if you have a stick shift, make sure its in gear).

I'd also get a second, seperate jack. Sometimes you cannot jack up the front of the car evenly, and are forced to jack up the driver side and then move over to the passenger side; with a second jack you eliminate that frustration.

 

OMG yes! Been here. Defiantly takes less time with a second jack, but if your on a budget and don't mind spending a extra six or seven minutes jacking up each side individually, you'll be good with one.

Also, as for the ratchet style, I'm not sure who you talked to but I've never had that happen. I own a pair of 3 ton ratchet style jack stands and I have bumped them dozens of times. The only way to get the ratchet down is by physically pulling up on the handle that doubles as a carrying handle. And it's at an angle that makes a little hard to do just by bumping into them. I don't mind the pin style, but I haven't used them since I got the ratchet style because it's a pain in the **** them to level...but those might have been just mine. Plus I tend to lose the pin....

 

Quick qestion, where is a good jacking point on my 96? ive always done it ont a plate upfront but i dont want to risk breaking anything.

 

K member for the front, center of the rear diff for the rear. As long as you're on the frame and not on the body or any pans, you're good.