So I finally got my car completely straightened out, FINALLY (need a lot of emphasis on 'finally' here). Have a newly rebuilt rear with Trans Am axels, limited slip, and 4:10 gears. The tune is fixed and my shift points are now correct. So I tried doing a burnout the other day because I'm dead set on beating the crap out of my car now. Taking it easy on her has not been working out lately. So while doing the burnout, both tires started spinning but then started hopping. Case thinks its the lower control arms, but wasn't sure if it could be caused by something else or not. I think he did say they will need replaced during the winter. Any other ideas of how to get rid of that? I don't think anything else was wearing out underneath, I've bearing driven her this year.

 

a few things to check- trans mount, u joints, rear shocks, rear control arm bushings(4). when i had bad wheel hop it was the shocks and trans mount.

 

Wheel hop is caused by something letting the rearend torque up (lifting the pinion end), then when the pinion snaps back down, the tires break free monetarily. It can keep doing that rhythmically to give you that chirp-chirp-chirp. In your car, that would mean a bushing or bushings are worn. Sloppy bushings will let the rearend twist, so as mentioned, look at your trans mount, control arm bushings, or the front bushing where the torque arm mounts to the trans. I'd suspect the torque arm first, as axle wrap is what it's there for to prevent.

 

If your car is lowered then you need the LCA relocation brackets. That will fix your problem.

 

^ That's a good point, her sig does show the car is lowered. DR, take a look at your control arms. If the rear mounting point is higher than the front, then that sure could be the source of your wheel hop.

 

The weak link in the 3rd and 4th gens is the rear suspension. There are many options to improve the skimpy spamped steel components.

Lower arm relocators will help gain you traction but if you have weak bushings in the lower arms it will not help much. If you still have the stock torque arm then a broken trans mount will cause hop as well.

Massey

 

I'm almost positive I don't have a broken mount. I'm pretty sure that's been replaced not too long ago. I'll have to check everything else. And yes, my car is lowered by 1.5-2"

 

umi makes a good bolt in relocation bracket. strano sells em but should get a better price on the net. and some nice new lca's to match would go great with your awesome rearend.

 

Oh man, that last sentence could really be steered in the wrong direction, not that anything comes to mind!
If you go with relocation brackets, even bolt on, it's highly recommended you weld them in place.

 

My moser 9" has LCA relocation brackets on it and I have a set of UMI double adjustable rod end LCA's and my car hooks great with them. As said before if it's lowered LCA relocation brackets are a must. I have a set off my old 10 bolt I'll sell to you for cheap if you want.I only used them like 2 months then blew up the 10 bolt. PM me if interested