Hi guys,
have any of you had to replace your head gaskets in car yet. I just purchased a 95 and I love it. Always wanted one....got everything fixed and cranked..an noticed my temp gauge maxing out...water in the oil...I have looked it over and it doesnt seem to be that bad although the engine is in there pretty tight against the firewall.....so my question really is if the rear head bolts are pretty accessible with the engine in the car.
Drop me a line
ken

 

Is your oil like a milkshake? or are you talking the white stuff on your oil cap?

Head gaskets are a pain. Getting the exhaust manufold bolt of can be the tuff part and torqueing the head bolts down with a angle meter in such a tight place is a pain. But it is all doable. Many garages want $1100-$1200 for the job. Coolant in the oil is normally a sign of an intake gasket. A blown headgasket can put coolant in the oil but it is normally going thru coolant real quick and smoking like crazy.

 

Thanks Gorn for the quick reply. My oil is like a milkshake its all water. though, there was no coolant in it. I'm pretty sure its the head gasket. When the engine is running water boils and blows out the coolant over flow tank in a matter of minutes. when I mean blows out...I mean it blows out even with the cap on. When I got the car I saw that there was that rust colored water residue around the radiator cap and the coolant overflow...I plan to break it down this week, I was just wondering who had done it and if it was horendous or if a six pack and a good friend would ease the burden. One thing is for sure....Its gonna get done by the weeks end.

 

https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/new-fun-me-camaro-56126/

heres the link to the thread i wrote up when i did my head gaskets if you need any help shoot me a pm

 

You mean the cars coolant sysem had just water and no coolant in it? I hope your right cause if coolant got inside the motor your motor will not make it 2 months after the head gaskets are re-done. That is a lot of work for very short drive.

You should pull and flush the radiator, its the best way to get that Brown mud left from the old coolant GM had in there.

 

It is a real PITA to do but you can do it. Take a few pics of all the wiring harness, mounting brackets, etc in case you need a reference during reassembly. Have the heads pressure test and surfaced to make sure they are not cracked. If you still have the lift bracket on the back of the passenger side of motor, it can be a pain to get off and it has to come off in order to get the valve cover off. Once the valve cover and UIM is removed, it gives you a little wiggel room. Remember to replace the plastic L shaped hose too! Good time to replace the radiator hoses, plug wires, etc. Careful under the cowl, the edge of it is sharp as a razor blade. Good luck!

 

Once the intake manifold is off the rest is like any other v engine.

 

Thanks guys....THIS IS AN AWESOME FORUM!! ken

 

If you go to autozone or advanced auto, pick up a Haynes manual, there is a pretty good writeup to help. Also, you will want to purchase new head bolts and sealant because they are "torque to yield" and should not be re used.

 

More like can't be reused. They will most likely break on retorque. You will need a torque angler. No way around that since the limited space makes it hard to make good angles. You will need a full wrench set along with pretty much all the basic sockets.