these are my questions... are you planning on putting the car away for the winter??? do you have a backup car??? if so id say drop the engine and do the work yourself the 5-6k numbers are right in a rebuild id take my time and get a low miles engine outta the junkyard and build that and save a butt load of money 2 -3 grand and a jyard engine will go very far as in all new internals and some boltons most likely getting you to your 350-400HP

 

Ok guys thank you very much sounds like the low mileage engine is definitely the way to go. This car is just a toy it wont be my everyday driver. so i got time to put it away and save some more cash. So in closing i say screw the Happy hooker! lol

 

Just found an engine with 51k on it. $1500 hell yeah thats the way to go also has a 2 year warranty. Thanks again guys.

 

happy hooker is an offset puller that swivels side to side.

 

Where does that mount, to the top of the intake?

 

yah heres the write up from tpis


The ultimate engine removal tool. We originally designed the Happy Hooker to take the engine out of our 94 World Challenge Camaro. The factory procedure is to remove the engine from the bottom which means removal of the entire front cross-member with suspension as well as the accessories and disconnection the brake lines. With the Happy Hooker you can lift the engine out the top in half the time it takes by the book. But this tool isn't specifically for the f-body cars. The plate is drilled to lift all TPI, LT, and LS engines. Also fits our MiniRam and Holly and Q-Jet carburators. Included with the Hooker are four 6mm and four 8mm bolts for all the factory fuel injected engines. On TPI cars, the plenum and runners need to be removed to bolt the Hooker to the fuel rails and on the LS engines the intake needs removal to bolt the Hooker to the valley cover

 

To the OP: it sounds like you've made the decision to go with a used engine and that's fine. Sounds like you found a deal. For reference, I overhauled the 3.4 in my 94 around this time last year. Bore 030 over, new pistons/rings/bearings, polish crank, slight decking to achieve flatness, new cam and lifters, skim both heads, 3-angle valve job. My cost was almost $2800 for that work alone. I had pulled the engine myself (out the botom) and then reassembled it and installed it. The labor for a shop to do that would have been ugly. So it sounds to me like your original budget to do what you wanted to do needed to be doubled to actually do it.
I hope your used engine turns out to be a good one.
You may also fall into the same trap that I did with my car last year, especially since your ride has 2X the miles that mine did: once you drop the crossmember/rack/front suspension you suddenly realize that NOW is the time to do LCA bushings, UCA bushings, balljoints, etc. That'll add $$$ to the job but it makes sense to do it while the front end is out and you'll need an alignment anyway.
Once i buy 4 new tires for my car I'll have damn near $5k in it and I did all the work except the engine overhaul machine work/short block assembly! It sure does add up fast.

 

I know alot of people who work on cars and just so you know what cost you $1000 might only cost me a couple cases of beer and $500. so maybe thats where some of the confusion is coming in on how much it will cost me. LOL. Also ive read in other forums that people who have used the happy hooker loved it one guy swears he pulled the motor in 45 minutes (out the top) with a buddy thats nuts. And they say the best way is to pull tranny out the bottom and motor out the top. My buddy is going try the hooker so ill let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for all the advice and input.

 

10 yard penalty instant 4th down for BS
sht it takes 45 min to unbolt the exhaust manis and have you ever tried to get the top bolt on the trans get outta here i had to make a wrench for that

 

Dang.