Gear Whine
#11
08-22-2012 | 08:28 PM
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October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,473
From: Eastern PA,
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I watch the whole video,,, A few comments.
Never hit a precision hardend part with anything made of steel. Either a brass hammer or a brass drift.
When working with a press like he showed you really should use some type of shatter shield. We are talking cheap case hardend metal and a lot of pressure. An old brake drum works fine!
This is not a how to video. Just search the internet for the Ring pinion patterns there is a lot more to it then what he mentioned.
He did not review how to set your Differential preload. He only said he set it. If you are replacing the Diff bearing you can not just stick the same shims back in.
If anyone wants to know, there is a way to set the preload on the crush bushing by yourself and without giving yourself a Hernia.
If you get it together and it hums its not going to get better as it breaks in. It is together wrong. It is a do over. I have heard it so many times. " The mechainc said it would quite down in 500 miles" No he is hoping you will get use to it. New cars with 2.5 miles on them dont sound like that.
The thing he did with the bearing was interesting. With the right tools taking the bearing on and off the pinion is not that hard. I think this would be fine for a stock rear BUT you are assuming the bearings have the same overall height. If you are using an OEM bearing that is not a super risky assumption (factory tolerance should be .0005") but if you are replacing a OEM bearing with a aftermarket bearing that could vary as much as .002". Of course if your exsiting bearing is worn down you can not do this. It could be a nice short cut but you should recheck your shim choice after you install the new bearing. You need to be 100% sure that none of the grinding dust comes out of that bearing onto the new race. Even trace amounts hardend steel dust mixed with diamond will kill that bearing fast.
I use to setup up rears under warranty and I was luckly enough to be taught by an old timer. I have setup up rears for other mechaincs. Mostly because I had access to all the right tools. The tools he had and made are the minimum you could get a way with. If you thinking about trying this without the tool to set the pinion depth, don't. Unless you are doing this as a leaning thing it is not worth buying all the tools you will need to do this right. If I had to guess I would say 60% of the first time DIY end up as a redo in the first 12 months.
Never hit a precision hardend part with anything made of steel. Either a brass hammer or a brass drift.
When working with a press like he showed you really should use some type of shatter shield. We are talking cheap case hardend metal and a lot of pressure. An old brake drum works fine!
This is not a how to video. Just search the internet for the Ring pinion patterns there is a lot more to it then what he mentioned.
He did not review how to set your Differential preload. He only said he set it. If you are replacing the Diff bearing you can not just stick the same shims back in.
If anyone wants to know, there is a way to set the preload on the crush bushing by yourself and without giving yourself a Hernia.
If you get it together and it hums its not going to get better as it breaks in. It is together wrong. It is a do over. I have heard it so many times. " The mechainc said it would quite down in 500 miles" No he is hoping you will get use to it. New cars with 2.5 miles on them dont sound like that.
The thing he did with the bearing was interesting. With the right tools taking the bearing on and off the pinion is not that hard. I think this would be fine for a stock rear BUT you are assuming the bearings have the same overall height. If you are using an OEM bearing that is not a super risky assumption (factory tolerance should be .0005") but if you are replacing a OEM bearing with a aftermarket bearing that could vary as much as .002". Of course if your exsiting bearing is worn down you can not do this. It could be a nice short cut but you should recheck your shim choice after you install the new bearing. You need to be 100% sure that none of the grinding dust comes out of that bearing onto the new race. Even trace amounts hardend steel dust mixed with diamond will kill that bearing fast.
I use to setup up rears under warranty and I was luckly enough to be taught by an old timer. I have setup up rears for other mechaincs. Mostly because I had access to all the right tools. The tools he had and made are the minimum you could get a way with. If you thinking about trying this without the tool to set the pinion depth, don't. Unless you are doing this as a leaning thing it is not worth buying all the tools you will need to do this right. If I had to guess I would say 60% of the first time DIY end up as a redo in the first 12 months.
Last edited by Gorn; 08-22-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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