I know you said you could not scan it but is the check engine light on? It should be. A motor running that rich should have a rich code. Now if the O2 sensors are not working well it will not set a rich code. This becomes catch 22. Are the O2 sensors that cause of the richness or did the O2 sensor fail because something else cause the system to be rich slowly over a long time. I have seen both.

The normal process is to try to verify that everything is working as it should then replace the O2 sensors. I won’t lie, I have done this process before only to have the check engine light come on after I changed the O2 sensors. I think in both of those cases it ended up being a dripping injector. More times I replaced the O2 sensor and the car was fine after. In many more cases I used the scan tool to find a bad sensor or wire, then replaced the O2s and down the road she goes.

 

did the new wiring for the maf get soldered, just twisted on or did they use crush connectors. the voltage used for processing information is low so any bleed off of power caused by a poor connection is going to mess up the readings.

 

twisted with electrical tape when i got it. I crush connected 2 of the 3 and wire capped the other together. Engine light is on after it warms up any time i drive the car.

 

You have a closed loop soft code and no way to scan it. Good luck. I have no idea how to help with that.

 

see if this helps https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...ing-maf-63856/ try testing sensors after the engine warms up and see what comes up.

 

Bought the gasket for the rear earlier while i was at work. Will be changing the fluid sometime next month after i finish paying off the compressor im getting.

 

if your good at soldering do them connections up like a pro. any corrosion or lose connection will screw up the output. my tps was twist connected and it was not getting good readings to the computer. soldered them and its working now. no codes or such, just idled like crab. high, low, just right, never knew what to expect

 

Ill solder them soon as it warms up. Bought the gear oil for the diff. Anything need to be added to it or is it fine as it is to swap fluid and close it back up?

 

Changed the oil in the rear. Was sorta filled with air bubbles but had no pieces or metal in it. Changed the lower ball joints also since i went for an alignment earlier and they said the lowers were shot. The brown stuff in the oil in the pan is air from what it looked like.

 

Looks like you had some water in there, good thing you swapped the oil out. You would only need additive if you had a posi. With the V6 yours should be an open rear (non-posi)