multi-meter on OHMs
positive on brown wire prong, and negitive to ground?

is that how i would check for a good ground?
stupid question but im still trying to learn this electronic stuff, thanks.

 

yes and if it reads 0 its grounded

 

As you've already surmised you do have a digital egr valve with zero vacuum lines; you do not have an egr solenoid or at least a remote egr solenoid. IOW everything egr related in on the passenger side of the engine compartment as shown below and there are no vacuum lines.

I don't think the problem with your car is caused by a bad egr valve. The computer *thinks* the egr valve is bad because it runs tests on the egr system and the results are those that would occur with a bad egr valve but those same results can come from other problems.

First thing I would do is check manifold vacuum at idle. I'd expect at least 15 or 16 inches of mercury. I'd be listening for the hiss of a vacuum leak. Spray some starting fluid or carb cleaner around the intake manifold while the engine is idling and see if the idle speed changes (which would indicate a vacuum leak). There's a mess of vacuum tubing nestled in the intake manifold and it can crack. There's also the big rubbery fitting toward the front of the intake and that can split. If you don't find any vacuum leaks you should disconnect the brake booster hose at the back of the intake, plug the fitting, and recheck vacuum. You could have a leaking brake booster.

Craby, i think, said that he knew of a forum member who had leaks due to a cracked intake manifold. I need to check for that on my own car.

Looking at the pic below, yu have manifold vacuum in all of the big aluminum upper intake and that vacuum is present at the egr valve via the flexible, corrugated tube. that tube could be cracked or have a bad gasket.

Bad egr valves won't cause an idle problem unless the valve pintle(s) are stuck OPEN because none of the egr solenoids is energized at idle. It's HIGHLY unlikely that your old egr valve AND a new part will have stuck pintles so I say forget it.

Look for a vacuum leak first. Then maybe high fuel pressure due to a bad regulator.

 

Power wire showed 003 OHM's
got a "beep" from the meter, wich is supposed to indicate a good circuit i guess.
still no volts from the wire.

augapfel, I have checked everwhere for a vacuum leak, with brake cleaner, all lines around upper intake, all the spots i could hit with the spray on and around the intake manifold, the vac line on the brake booster. everything i could think of.
no leaks. just an engine covered in brake cleaner.

i have never actually used a gage for this, i could rent one from autozone, what vac line do i hook it up to. and where is it located, incase i dont know.

i know there isnt a vac leak. but i can see how the needle bounces around and maybe that will tell me something.

thanks.

 

oops didnt look at your other picture, i see now.
on my way to pick up the tester wish me luck

 

I still say it's not the egr valve or system.

How many miles on this 3400? What does the coolant look like, clean or a rusty mess? Have you pulled a couple of plugs to see what the tips look like?

These 3400s like to crack RH heads for some reason. Just sayin... Is it smoking at all?

 

vacuum gage says 18.
everything is pretty normall, rev and drops to zero then back up ect..
fluctuates 1psi according to the rough idle.

125000 miles, plugs and coolant changed pretty recently.
no smoke.

still no power to egr power wire. probly the problem, in wich case that is beyond me.

 

Oh and what should i plug the brake booster fitting on the manifold with? dont want to ruin the threads or something.
mind as well try i guess. but checked everything pretty well with carb cleaner. no leaks

 

3 ohms with the meter test probes hooked to ground and the power wire? if so i think you have a ground short to the power wire. at least a partial one

 

exactly. 003 ohms. power and ground.
that would make sense since there is no voltage coming from the wire that is supposed to be hot.