do we have a how to on original u joints?
#1
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going to replace them, i see on youtube how to`s, but not for our cars. seeing it has a aluminum driveshaft, i would like to know if theres a different procedure. i changed the waterpump, looks good so far, i drove the car with water + prestone superflush for about a month prior to get any junk out, surprisingly my mpg has increased! the tank after the water pump i got 14.5 city, was getting 12s mostly before. also the volt gauge is constantly under 13 now, as it was at the top of the red area before. could it be that the pulley/bearing was so bad on the waterpump that the belt wasnt tight enough? so now its getting proper charge?
#3
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i read somewhere that the u joint would need to be heated and something is supposed to burst and leak out before the joint can press or hammer out if its the original u joints? i dont know how true this is, as im going to change joints for the first time any tips?
#4
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Heating, is a Barney Rubble approach, it is going to weaken the drive shaft where it has the most stress.
Borrow a set of the proper tools from your local parts store, and forget about the Mexican heat wrench.
I can E-mail you a copy of the FSM procedure if you provide an E mail address.
Borrow a set of the proper tools from your local parts store, and forget about the Mexican heat wrench.
I can E-mail you a copy of the FSM procedure if you provide an E mail address.
Last edited by z28pete; 06-22-2012 at 10:20 AM.
#5
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Pete, what he's talking about is some u-joint caps are locked in by molded plastic (or nylon), not clips. You'll be able to tell by the lack of a clip, and a hole in the knuckle of the yoke where the melted plastic got injected. To remove the caps, you heat it up with a torch till the plastic oozes out. That only requires Betty Rubble heat (although she was definitely hotter than Barney, lol). New joints are held in place with clips.