cooling fan
hi everyone. i'm back with another problem.i have a 95 camaro 3.4. my cooling fan quit working. i've changed the relay and still nothing. after further investigation, i realized i'm getting no power at the plug. i have power in fuse box and have replaced the relay and still no power at the plug. i'm assuming something is wrong between coming out of fuse box to the plug. something in that wire. do you think my assumtion is correct. should i pull the fuse box and track that wire to the plug. what everyone think. thanks in advance.
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yep get the voltage tester out an track it. if you haven't yet download a factory service manual. brb
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go here to download your year manual. http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
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coolin fan
well i pulled the fuse box out and tracked the wire as far as i can. wire in great shape. see nothing wrong. don't know how to use volt meter.
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get on youtube and do a search for using volt meter. also there is a fuseable link in the fan wiring that could be bad. looks like a lump in the wire. test for power on both sides of lump
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thanks, i'll check it out
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Easter
(Post 731533)
hi everyone. i'm back with another problem.i have a 95 camaro 3.4. my cooling fan quit working. i've changed the relay and still nothing. after further investigation, i realized i'm getting no power at the plug. i have power in fuse box and have replaced the relay and still no power at the plug. i'm assuming something is wrong between coming out of fuse box to the plug. something in that wire. do you think my assumtion is correct. should i pull the fuse box and track that wire to the plug. what everyone think. thanks in advance.
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coolin fan
thank you for the drawnings. i've been using them. peterpar, i'm saying i have no power at the plug. ok so this is where i'm at,i'm following chart c12 page 2.i'm on step 2. i've located ckt335. but don't know where b+ is or understand how to hook test light. i also read jumping across d1 and d4 should energize the fan. i did that and the fan came on. anyone know where this b+ is and how to hook test light uo. thanks....
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Originally Posted by Easter
(Post 731573)
i'm following chart c12 page 2.i'm on step 2. i've located ckt335. but don't know where b+ is or understand how to hook test light. anyone know where this b+ is and how to hook test light uo.
Originally Posted by Easter
(Post 731573)
i also read jumping across d1 and d4 should energize the fan. i did that and the fan came on.
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coolin fan
you say the circuit side of relay. what should i do next
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Originally Posted by peterpar
(Post 731574)
What the drawing is referring to is hooking the test light to a positive battery polarity source and checking to see if the PCM is sending a ground to D2 of the coil of the fan relay to energize it. Checking between terminals D5 and D2 with a test light while the ignition is "ON"/Engine "OFF" and the AC "ON" should accomplish this test as long as you verified D5 was hot as in step 1 of the chart.
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i failed to mention my ac don't work.so the tests where i have to have ac on, i can't do
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coolin fan
i followed the wires going to d2 d5. there real little brown and green wires. they both go into what looks like that plastic stuff you heat up and it shrenks. could those possibley be in line fuses.
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The test I'm wanting you to do is done with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine "OFF" while the AC switch is "ON". The AC won't actually mechanically run because the engine is not running, but the AC switch will send an input voltage to the PCM and the PCM program should command the fan relay to turn "ON" by providing a ground to it's coil. What I'm not sure of is if the AC system is low on Freon, will the PCM still command the cooling fan relay on. You also haven't said if you tested to see if terminal D5 has 12V to a ground when the ignition is on. This provides voltage to the fan relay coil from fuse #6 and if this fuse is blown, the PCM could be providing a ground to the relay as it should and the relay will never energize because it has no power source to it. When working with electrical circuits, you can't assume things are OK and not verify them. If you do, you could end up chasing your tail trying to troubleshoot, only to find out what you assumed was your problem.
It's getting to a point where you're going need a scanner and somebody capable of operating it to continue to troubleshoot. You need to know what temperature the PCM is being told the engine is running at and if the PCM has commanded the fan to run. I believe the V6 engine dash gauge in 1995 uses a separate sensor than the PCM sensor, so the PCM sensor may be bad and telling the PCM that the engine temp is not warm enough to require the fan to come on. As for in line fuse in the wiring, if it has, someone has modified the wiring and we would have a whole new ballgame. |
coolin fan
peterpar: i i wanna thank you for trying to help me out. i think it's to the point i need to take it to my boys. i've never been good at electrical.i 'm just not smart enough to do electrical. it may be a couple weeks before i can get it in there. but as soon as i find out what's wrong, i'll get on here and let you know what the problem was. thanks again.
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Don't feel like you're the only one who has trouble understanding an electrical problem, because most people today can't look at an electrical schematic and explain how the circuit works or follow it to troubleshoot from. We all have different levels of skills. I went through a four year electrical apprenticeship program and spent the last 40 years working as an electrician on industrial motor control systems which gives me a huge advantage over you.
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