Code scanner, reader.....

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  #11  
Old 08-11-2012 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by z28pete
Here is what I used on my 94 Z28. Got it used on EBay when OBDII came out and many shops were getting rid of their OBDI only stuff. Works directly on all GM cars up to 94, and needs a cable adapter for the 95 cars.
So that one works well? Not just a fancy looking thing that just shorts the pins?
 
  #12  
Old 08-11-2012 | 08:22 PM
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Works very well, but new it went for over $1000, I got on EBay for $200, because it became obsolete, and many repair shops were trying to get rid of them.
 
  #13  
Old 08-11-2012 | 08:46 PM
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haha...I just picked one up for $120 from ebay. I just disconnected the battery and pulled the PCM fuse (I know, duplicate effort, but I wanted to make double sure). This is supposed to clear codes stored in the PCM, correct? I checked for codes again. Again it says connected successfully and no codes are present. But if I turn the key off and check again, it comes up with about 7-8 codes, some different from the first bunch of codes I got, some the same, which makes me think it is just picking up a bunch of noise from the key turning power on and off and interpreting that as codes.
 

Last edited by jkeaton; 08-11-2012 at 08:49 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-12-2012 | 12:55 AM
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I'm thinking the cp9815 would work

https://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-l...-cp9815-70599/
 
  #15  
Old 08-12-2012 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jkeaton
I just replaced the MAP sensor a few weeks ago. Maybe it caused a code by being new, i dont know. I have an appt.with the dealer Monday. I'm going to pay the $90 just for peace of mind. I'm also going to disconnect the battery for awhile and clear the codes. See if they come back.
I disconnect my battery monday through friday during work (8-12 hours) and the SES light still comes back. The only reason i do this is because i have an electrical drain.
 

Last edited by BillsFan727; 08-12-2012 at 01:28 AM.
  #16  
Old 08-13-2012 | 05:07 PM
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Took it to the dealer today. They only charged me $40 to scan for codes. They got DTC 32 (EGR circuit) only. Guess I need to start checking that out. and a code 84, which they say is "skip shift" whatever that is. The ABS was code 14which is open circuit. I have replaced both front wheel sensors, so now I need to start tracing wires. I hear the wiring to the sensors is a common problem.
 
  #17  
Old 08-13-2012 | 07:08 PM
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yes the short harness to the front sensors is know for failure. heres what i have on a dtc32

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Name:  DTC32-2.jpg
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2012 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks craby, the dealer actually printed out the flow chart for me, albiet to tell me how complicated the repair was going to be....I'm googling how to replace the EGR valve and solenoid, it seems pretty straight forward, but I see it must be done blind as I can't see the mounting bolts, only feel them...lol...the vacuum lines are good and electrical as far as I can tell. With 180k on the clock my presumption is the valve itself but I'm going to replace the solenoid while I'm at it.

Don't look too bad....http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg
 

Last edited by jkeaton; 08-13-2012 at 07:46 PM.
  #19  
Old 08-13-2012 | 11:15 PM
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also, what kind of driveability issues would accompany a faulty EGR system? my car starts normally, drives normally. It will stumble a bit a light throttle cruise situations, but aside from that and the SES, no other things I can think of....though I have noticed my mileage dropping. Is that a symptom?
 
  #20  
Old 08-14-2012 | 11:34 AM
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yes mpg will suffer, you may want to test your evap system as well and how old are your plugs?
 



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