Ok so my cf df clutch has arrived today so I'll be picking that up this week when I get a chance. Anyways I was wondering if there's anything I need to look put for when I drop the tranny. I know there's a decent amount of bolts to undo but is there anything that might slide out or pour out? Should I change the tranny fluid before I remove the tranny or after it's on the floor? Any tips would be awesome. Thanks.

 

Drain it when it is out. You can get most of the fluid out that way. You are replacing the fly wheel, release bearing, Slave cylinder and pilot bushing? Don't forget you will need to replace the flywheel bolts, they are once use only and if you don't have one you will need a torque angle gage.

I think that is about it.

 

Leaving the slave cylinder. If It gives me problems after the change I'll swap it out for a new one. Flywheel I'll have machined. Should be a fun swap having little to no room to work. It'll also be my first clutch swap so that'll be good experience.

 

Slave cylinder mount behind the release bearing. Replacing the clutch and the slave cylinder is about the same amount of work(you have pull the tranny). Flywheel is not serviceable because of the way the Slave cylinder is designed. Autozone sells one for $50. You will have to get flywheel bolts from GM dealer. DO NOT try to reuse or subtitute your flywheel bolts. Do you have torque angle gage?

 

You didn't say whether you have a 5 speed or 6 speed. On a 5 speed, the slave cylinder is part of the release bearing.
On a 6 speed, the slave is a separate external unit, so replacing that one later wouldn't be a big whoop.

 

Man I am getting old, I installed mine 2 years ago I remembers how it all worked I just forgot it was all one PC. I was going by his name and just assumed it was a 5 speed.

 

Ya it's a five speed. These cars really are lame to work on. Why does gm always make things so difficult?

 

38 is about to hit quad digit posts GM put the slave cylinder separate on the 6 speed for easier installation and removal.

 

This internal design pushes against the the trans face plate, There is no levers or pivot pins. I have seen the design before but I can not remember where. I am thinking it was for a UPS convertion kit I worked on to swtch there trucks over from manual. My guess it is much checper to manufacture since there is so few moving parts. The torque to yeild bolts are used a lot with fly wheel and cylinder heads, any place heat is an issue.

I did the math a while ago I think my Centerforce clutch job cost about $550 in parts. Your going to want to pick up a clutch alignment to also, The good new I think I only paid $2.99 for mine.

 

Some other vehicles have the integrated release bearing/slave cylinder, my Jeep Wrangler has it for instance. Now that we know what you're playing with, yes you absolutely should replace yours. The release bearing would be a given anyway if the master was an external type. The last thing you want to happen is for it to crap out on you next month after the clutch job is done. You wouldn't be able to kick yourself in the butt hard enough for not doing it now while all is apart.