Car Won't Start; Just Clicks
#11
06-04-2010, 01:54 AM
This whole thing sounds like loose or bad connections. The click, click (pause) click, Click is usually the engine relays turning on then the current draw causes them to reset back to the off position and rinse and repeat. This is caused by low battery charge (a brand new battery should be fully charged) or loose connections. Check the cables to make sure they are not cross threaded on the battery (very common with side posts and will cause your problems). When you do this there is a good chance you will get enough power for everything but the starter so check it out.
NEVER just buy a part for your car unless you know it is bad. I work at an autopart store and I hate selling people parts they don't need and I usually will start asking them questions about what is the car doing. People bring me relays all the time, I usually send them home with their relay and give them ideas of what is really wrong. Relays rarely go bad and I can test them (and I do test them for customers) I think I sell 2 relays for every 50 I test. A good part sales man will not just sell you a starter because you say "all the car does is make a fast clicking sound when I try to start the car" If so he is just looking for a sale that he knows you will not be able to return once you install it. When I have a customer tell me about the clicking flags go up in my head that the starter may be just fine and they need to charge the battery, check/replace cables, and I offer to test and charge the battery and starter for them if they can get the items to me. I tell them that I don't want to sell them a $150 starter when they need a $80 battery and that if the starter is not the problem the battery is the starter is not returnable once installed. I usually get the customer to walk out of the store not spending any money but returning a little while later with the car or parts for me to test and then I sell them the correct part the first time. That makes a customer happy and keeps them coming back to my store.
Oh and if ya didn't know "Cross threading" is when the threads of the bolt and nut (in this case battery post) are not lined up correctly and actually cutting into each other. They will feel like they are tight but in reality they are not. The bolt should go in at a 90 degree angle on all sides to the post.
Massey
NEVER just buy a part for your car unless you know it is bad. I work at an autopart store and I hate selling people parts they don't need and I usually will start asking them questions about what is the car doing. People bring me relays all the time, I usually send them home with their relay and give them ideas of what is really wrong. Relays rarely go bad and I can test them (and I do test them for customers) I think I sell 2 relays for every 50 I test. A good part sales man will not just sell you a starter because you say "all the car does is make a fast clicking sound when I try to start the car" If so he is just looking for a sale that he knows you will not be able to return once you install it. When I have a customer tell me about the clicking flags go up in my head that the starter may be just fine and they need to charge the battery, check/replace cables, and I offer to test and charge the battery and starter for them if they can get the items to me. I tell them that I don't want to sell them a $150 starter when they need a $80 battery and that if the starter is not the problem the battery is the starter is not returnable once installed. I usually get the customer to walk out of the store not spending any money but returning a little while later with the car or parts for me to test and then I sell them the correct part the first time. That makes a customer happy and keeps them coming back to my store.
Oh and if ya didn't know "Cross threading" is when the threads of the bolt and nut (in this case battery post) are not lined up correctly and actually cutting into each other. They will feel like they are tight but in reality they are not. The bolt should go in at a 90 degree angle on all sides to the post.
Massey
I know i didn't cross thread because i first tighten by hand as much as i can and then seal the deal with a lil help from a socket. nothing ever with too much torque to cross thread or strip bolts (ive learned my lesson enough times). I wish some of you were here in the ie in california to help me out. lol.
by the way, another suspision i have is the relays? is this a valid suspision? i replaced the starter relay. should i replace any others? ill check fuses tomorrow too. and does anyone know (if it matters) what particular direction the fuel pump and ac relay have to go? im wondering if i put these upside down. but ill check as much of this stuff out as i can.
my mom offered today to put it on a card for me to take it to goodyear, but i dont wanna waste her money or put myself n her in more debt if i can do it myself. thanks again.
#12
06-04-2010, 02:13 AM
Read the part of my post about the relays. They RARELY ever go bad.
If you can finger tight for a few turns then need to snug the bolt up then you didnt cross thread it. The cables I am talking about are the battery cables. They go from the positive side of the battery to the starter (and smaller wires going to the alternator and junction box) and the negative cable going to the engine block and chassis of the car.
Most of the time when you buy a new battery it is good from the get-go. But having sold a couple that were dead on the shelf, I know it can happen. It is not common I think I have sold maybe 3 in almost 10 years behind a part counter. Bring the battery back and have them check it and charge it for you if it needs it. Keep a hold of the receipt because that is also your proof of warranty.
Massey
If you can finger tight for a few turns then need to snug the bolt up then you didnt cross thread it. The cables I am talking about are the battery cables. They go from the positive side of the battery to the starter (and smaller wires going to the alternator and junction box) and the negative cable going to the engine block and chassis of the car.
Most of the time when you buy a new battery it is good from the get-go. But having sold a couple that were dead on the shelf, I know it can happen. It is not common I think I have sold maybe 3 in almost 10 years behind a part counter. Bring the battery back and have them check it and charge it for you if it needs it. Keep a hold of the receipt because that is also your proof of warranty.
Massey
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