I have a 02 Camaro SS rx7with ls1/t56 has psi conv. harness got the car with fuel pump hot wired to the battery bc the guy I got it from said fuel pump stop working so he did that. Got it home after a lot of temps of trying to figure out what was wrong got it to start and run.

Took it for a test drive and seen my gauges going crazy in the dash and yes I have the speed hut conv. and it just died stalled out like you tuned the key off. took awhile of cranking it for it to start and mad it back home. I hook the fuel pump back up the right way and find out the pump was not turning on nor was it getting fire to the plugs so I decide to ground the PCM and bam the fuel pump turned on and she started.

Drove her around for a couple of day with no problems decide to check all grounds and found the one on the buck of cylinder head was loss tighten it up and my gauges stop all there crazy stuff and I removed the PCM ground I made. Went for a drive and bam stalled out again like three times sometimes I could turn the key off then back on bam she fired up while still going 70mph or sometimes I have to bump the starter when I'm in gear and moving when it dies and she fires back up.

Other times I have to pull over and wait a few mins then try it again turn the key on and off a bunch then bam she fires up this problem is really starting to drive me crazy I love this car and it my dream car but I'm to the point of selling it. I put a new TPS and crank sensor on it and check the MAP sensor and wiring harness I see nothing wrong with engine harness its throwing no codes.

I don't have MAS I'm speed dens. I since then have put 4 grounds off the engine to car. when she dose this the fuel pump stops working and I can tell when she going to start back up bc I can hear the fuel pump turn on and bam she fires right up perfect. its a brand new 255 fuel pump to.

Another problem I found is when you remove the metal cover to get to the fuel pump the top of my fuel pump holder is holding 12.8 volts. I disconnect the fuel leveling wires and that stop giving my fuel pump hanger 12 volts HAS ANYONE EVER HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS PLEASE HELP I DONT WANT TO SELL THE CAR....

Sometimes I can drive it for a couple of day and it don't do this then other times it dose it 4 or 6 times while driving it.. if you need anymore info please ask I have tested almost everything on this car lol

 

First off straight wiring a fuel pump is a bad Idea, you basically you have made a flame thrower. Race cars do this but they have kill switched in the passengers compartment and a master kill switch at the back of the car. Also they run in a place where everyone knows there is a kill switch in the back of the car. Your car starts shooting flames on a public road no one is running up to it looking for a switch.

I doubt you are going to find someone with the same symptoms as you because so few people will have a straight wired cars.
From what you described I would guess the pump or the wiring to the fuel pump is overheating. Either a bad ground or a power wire supply that is not large enough or and bad crimp to the power wire. It is also possible that something in the fuel system is blocking fuel flow. These pumps are very high performance and they need fuel flow to cool them. Without it they will over heat.

What I would do is run leads to the fuel pump and hook up a volt meter to the fuel pump at the connector. Then you can see the voltage at the pump when it stalls. If you lose voltage when it stalls it is a wiring issue if you don’t it’s a pump issue. It is possible to get a defective pump or over size the pump but the 255 is a common upgrade on these cars.

If this is a daily driver you should think about restoring the original system. That system will kill the pump if it does not see RPMs of a running motor.

 

well it not the fuel pump i wired it in with a fuse and kill switch to battery and car lost spark and died while driving again and i can the fuel pump still running so not a pump problem..

something is stopping my car to stop getting ign for a sec or min then i have to either pull over and restart it or turn key off and on the start it while im moving and some time it just starts right back up or dose it and catches its self trying to die and bam keeps going but still act like it tried to cut all power to spark plugs

and i have no idea today i grab the wiring harness and shook it and moved to around to see if i could get it to do it but nothing.

 

Next step is to figure out if its the trigger that tells the PCM engine position. The PCM or the ignition system itself.

Step one. you just need to watch the sensors, you want to see if you loose Crank or Cam signal before the engine shuts off, If those sensors are working right you should see the engine RPM drop as it stalls, If should not just switch off.

 

running hp tuners scanner I looked and replayed it 100 times and watch the Crank and cam sensor and they just shut down instant like you turned the key off and when it dose it the rpms fall real fast to 0 no matter if I'm moving or sitting. and know the car is started doing it when I'm not moving and holding about 2200 to 2500 rpms she just dies sometimes

 

try adjusting the tilt on your steering column. see if that changes anything. wires in there may be unhappy and are shorting and adjusting may give an indication,,, or not.

 

i have had a sorta similar deal, ignition switch was bad and car would just die, one time i tried playing with the key moving back and forth and did make it home. thats when i figured the switch was bad, took apart and could see connectors inside switch was burnt.

 

Along the lines of what Craby is saying,,, next you want to watch the primary 12v going into the PCM and the PCM ground. Hook up a voltmeter so you can see the voltages as you drive. Is the PCM loosing power or ground as the input signals disappear?

The fact that you are loosing both Crank and CAM sensor at the same time is significant. You need to be sure of that. That pretty much eliminates sensors or engine wiring harness issues. Your left with PCM Power supply, PCM connector and PCM. The fact you are not getting any codes point to the same thing.

Maybe you will get lucky and Gary can chime in.

You said you have access to HPTuner? Normally you want to test everything and know 100% there is no bad wiring before you try a new PCM but PCMs sell for next to nothing at u-pull-it lots and HPTuners should be able to flash any PCM with the same model number. Just swapping in a PCM might be worth a shot.

 

no pcm is not losing power hook up hptuners to it and watch the light on the model and when it dose it the light never gos off so don't no this is got me stump

 

found the problem it was a Crk sensor signal wire my exhaust burnt a hole throw my wire cover and made a needle hole in the wire. you had to really look for it bc i over look it bc it was so small cut the wire right there and seen that the wire was oxidize took it out and soldier and shrink wrap i no peace and bam no more problem