Camaro Coolant Leak????
#32
03-31-2017, 09:43 PM
could be you dont have any, heres a writeup and found
**bleeding the system of air:
Start it up and let it run, radiator cap off, and let it warm up till the t-stat opens. I rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose like 20 times while its warming up to help move any air bubbles through the system and by the t-stat on the engine side. When the t-stat opens you’ll see the level drop as you squeeze it, its sucking the coolant through the system. You will also see the coolant start to flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down a lot, immediately top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop when the t-stat closes. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. I always massage the upper hose during the whole process to keep any air bubbles moving through. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens for the first time to make sure it’s not sitting there overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open. Sometimes you just have to work those hoses to move the air through. Even after it seems topped off after a couple cycles…check it the next time you have a cold engine…top off if needed. From here bleed air from cooling system? - ls1tech
**bleeding the system of air:
Start it up and let it run, radiator cap off, and let it warm up till the t-stat opens. I rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose like 20 times while its warming up to help move any air bubbles through the system and by the t-stat on the engine side. When the t-stat opens you’ll see the level drop as you squeeze it, its sucking the coolant through the system. You will also see the coolant start to flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down a lot, immediately top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop when the t-stat closes. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. I always massage the upper hose during the whole process to keep any air bubbles moving through. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens for the first time to make sure it’s not sitting there overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open. Sometimes you just have to work those hoses to move the air through. Even after it seems topped off after a couple cycles…check it the next time you have a cold engine…top off if needed. From here bleed air from cooling system? - ls1tech
#33
03-31-2017, 09:43 PM
!! No wonder my thing didn't have anything connected to it? So I can just cap that and be fine right?? Dang the autozone employees for making me worry lol
#34
04-01-2017, 07:09 AM
I find the advice from some parts guys funny, in some cases I have trouble holding in the laugh while I wait in line. I gave up correcting them years ago even when they give me advice. On one occasion I even interrupted them because the advice the customer was getting would have damaged his car. Brake fluid and power steering fluid are the same thing or something like that.
Some parts guys know a good deal, but the only real information I ask them is how many of "these" do you sell. It the best way to find common issues in certain models I do not normally work on.
Some parts guys know a good deal, but the only real information I ask them is how many of "these" do you sell. It the best way to find common issues in certain models I do not normally work on.
Last edited by Gorn; 04-01-2017 at 07:13 AM.
#35
04-02-2017, 02:17 AM
Wouldn't even waste my time capping it off to be honest. Not worth it when you're never going to use it.
They make large funnels...Lisle makes it in fact...that's for helping to fill and bleed the cooling system. I bought one a year or so ago and has come in handy. Part number 24610, called a spill free funnel. Works real nice for the $30
They make large funnels...Lisle makes it in fact...that's for helping to fill and bleed the cooling system. I bought one a year or so ago and has come in handy. Part number 24610, called a spill free funnel. Works real nice for the $30
#36
04-02-2017, 10:25 AM
you need to bleed the air out of the system. should be beeding screws, usually one around the thermostate and the heater hoses. different spots for different engines and cooling systems. my lt1 has three and its still hard to get all the air out. good idea to have the front of the car up as much as you can when filling, helps to get the air out. like on a steep hill or on jack stands.
so I decided to do the bleed without jacking it.
I opened the radiator cap and started the car filled the radiator with coolant and started massaging the coolant hoses that goes to the transmission. The coolant started overflowing and steaming up so I decided to turn it off.
I wanted to test drive it after that so after a ride around the block the coolant started smoking up and started spewing out the radiator cap??
Last edited by Bboyphil; 04-02-2017 at 10:30 AM.
#37
04-02-2017, 01:19 PM
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yeah I had my radiator replaced about a year ago from a mechanic who had good yelp ratings. I did not know he did the job so poorly and he happily took $350 off my hands.
By any chance do you know what that rubber cap is called? And it looks like I'm missing something under the rubber cap. Thanks craby!
[/img]yeah I had my radiator replaced about a year ago from a mechanic who had good yelp ratings. I did not know he did the job so poorly and he happily took $350 off my hands.
By any chance do you know what that rubber cap is called? And it looks like I'm missing something under the rubber cap. Thanks craby!
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 04-02-2017 at 01:27 PM.
#38
04-02-2017, 01:26 PM
i seen that it leakedon mine. i thought oh know no but was nice to find it was that factory cap ,you need to plug that ,that factory plastic cap from some rad ,i had the same thing going on an it lasted like a year on my 406 you need to plug it ,someone either did the radiator ,or stuck that cap on there ,a hard rubber fitting with a closed end should work fine ,just not plastic ,there is not alot of pressure there its the heat makes it crack,on mine it should have came off but was overlooked during install
Last edited by Bboyphil; 04-02-2017 at 01:29 PM.
#39
04-02-2017, 01:48 PM
keep an eye out for cracks i bought 2 myself incase ,yes that guy jipped you for a stock rad,sounds like the cap needs replacing ,or other problems
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 04-02-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#40
04-02-2017, 01:52 PM
what kinda radiator, is it aluminum,that could be some coolant you spilled did not look like cap to me
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 04-02-2017 at 01:54 PM.