I am new to this forum, my 16 year old son just bought a 95 Z28. The brake lights were not working, however the third brake light did work as did the turn signals and hazard signals. In a different thread here I was able to work out the problem. However, the car will now not crank and I think we triggered the VATS. It did start from a push start and ran for about 20 minutes before shutting it off and it still does not start. From what I have read, this may be due to the VATS. Obviously the fuel is enabled, but I think the starter enable relay is not being closed. Here is what we did. The car did start prior to this process

1) Removed the drive side kick panel and found that the connector to the steering column was not fully seated. This fixed the brake light issue. (we should have stopped here)

2) Since we had access to the wiring harnesses, we disconnected the battery so that we could clean each connector with electrical contact cleaner.

3) Re-connected the battery and tried to start the car. The starter clicked like a low battery. Double checking the battery connection and found it loose. Tightened and tried to start again. Relays click, no start. Jump starting with and still no start. Dead, as if the clutch is not engaged.

4) Checked the clutch switch and it is ok.


Doing research I found that the ignition security has been bypassed with the resistor match trick. From what I have read, this explains the fuel being enabled and why it will push start.

Since we thought it was the starter we did push start the car and it started. However, after parking and turning it off, it will not start with the ignition.

I found this method to fully bypass the Key-Pass II VATS and am wondering if anyone where knows if it works. (few descriptions)

members.shaw.ca/efog/Pen/4.9/.../GM%20VATS%20circuit.doc

PASSkey II bypass box

http://www.chalnet.net/Fiero/electri...ey/passkey.pdf

www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/documentation/VATS_Bypass_Module.pdf




Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated. My next plan is to access the

 

The simplest thing would be to send the PCM to a tuner like "PCM For Less" and have VATS deleted. Then you will never have to worry about it working or breaking.
That being said, VATS kills both the start relay and fuel injectors, so if the car starts with a push, I doubt VATS is causing your problem, most likely there is a problem with the starter solenoid, start/theft deterrent relay, transmission safety switch, clutch safety switch, crank fuse (IP fuse box), wiring problem between the VATS box and start relay, start relay to solenoid.
If the VATS box sees a proper resistance from the ignition key it simultaneously enables the start relay by providing a ground path to the relay coil, and sends a signal to the PCM to enable the injectors.

 

Great, thank you Pete for this information. I was wondering if both fuel and starter were both disabled. Some things that I read did seem to indicate that they were independent. Since it did start prior to us getting under the dash it seems odd it could be in the starter but anything is always possible.

Do you know if there is a place between the start/theft deterrent relay and the starter that I could test for a proper signal?

 

Fastest thing is to use a test light on the small wire on the starter itself. If it lights up when you try to start it everything is working except the starter.

 

Ok, I snuck home for lunch to look. i can not find a crank fuse and where is the IP fuse box. Sorry I am not up on the terminology. I have found to fuse boxes, one inside on the driver's side dash and the other is under the hood, driver's side (fuse and relay box).

Since it stopped starting i am thinking (and hoping) its a fuse

Many thanks