The ebay ones are not oil base, (the one I have anyway) they are use once and throw away. The ebay CAI can starve your motor but only above 5000 RPMs.

If the air cleaner is plugged with dirt it could be the issue. MAF could still be dirty also.

 

Hook a fuel pressure gauge up and see what it does when the car is accelerated and having issues? It could be the fuel pump is not pumping the correct volume. The ressure may be ok unless under heavy load. If it drops like more than 2 psi or so on heavy throttle its likely a pump. I diagnosed an astro van than did this however it also had intermittent starting issues. It would run ok most of the time, but stumble slightly at idle but drop 12 psi under acceleration because it couldnt pump enough fuel under load.

Check pressure with key on first. Then check to see if i bleeds off over like five or ten minutes. If it does then you eed to pinpoint whether the pump, injectors, or regulator is causing the leak down.

Then check it at idle and then see what it does under heavy throttle, when your having an issue.

 

The previous owner said a mechanic put in a fuel pump could it be it was not put in right?

 

How long ago was it put in?....... My dad had a blazer that had a pump go out and it took three pumps in about a 9-10 week span to get one that was any good (that didnt just last a couple of weeks). I wouldnt rule anything out. Pressure tests should be able to determine if that is your problem though.

 

1-2-3-4 = ok
2-3-4 = not ok.
Not saying this is the cause of your bog, but you sure do want to rule it out.

 

Check for vacuum leaks at the brake booster, check valve, and the line to the intake manifold while your at it. Spray around the hose and where the check valve is on the booster. to check the valve itself shut the car off and pump the brake pedal and see how many times you press it before it gets hard. should have at least 2 or 3 good pushes. Then start the car, shut it back off, let it sit for a while like maybe an hour or more and see if you still have the 2 or 3 pedal pushes before it gets hard.

The reason im telling you to do this is because a vacuum leak at the booster or line from the booster could possibly cause your drivability issue. You may not notice any major brake issues because the engine generates a larger vacuum during decel than when the throttle is open.

 

Ok,thank you guys I will check this out Monday when I'm off and let you guys know how it goes

 

I would say the fuel pump hasn't even been in for a year

 

If you watch a new car dealership you will see some very new cars coming in on flatbed. The newest car I even put a motor in had 11 miles on it. I have done dozens with less than 1000 miles on them. In most cases factory parts are better then the parts you get from a chain parts store. The point I am trying to make is just because a part is new or newer does NOT mean it can not be bad.

Original fuel pump in my 96 lasted. 150K mile,s 14 years. The first Airtek fuel pump did not last 2 weeks the second lasted a month, the third is on its second year and still going. I have a much better one sitting on the self waiting if this one fails.




You know it is not back pressure but I would not have even done that test until after I did the fuel pressure test. Do you have any codes? Have you tried drving the car with the MAF sensor disconected.

 

I haven't had time to mess with it yet.But when like for example when I try and take off it with bog when its tryin totake off.