Alright the cars starter is fine, I took it up and tested it. What happens is the car does not start at all, not even crank over and my security light on the dash and the LED is blinking. I have a 98 camaro V6 3.8L. Please help me someone.

 

Have you tried a spare key. The pellet may be bad.

 

Yes I've tried the spare key and still nothing. I sprayed some electronic cleaner into the ignition but that also did nothing. Anymore ideas?

 

did you check voltage of teh battery? check all grounds? check relays? also check to see if any corrosion on the relay block? sounds like there isn't enough "clean" juice to start the car. Corrosion on a batery terminal can cause a problem also.

Do you get power to everythign else? try turning lights on and turn the key....if lights dim you know the switch is sending juice to the starter and there is an issue with the starter. if lights don't dim it is not the starter and you need to check the cables, wires, etc.

 

Relays and fuses are always good places to start.

 

Have someone turn the key to start it and hold it. Hit the starter with a hammer.

I took the starter out of a car because I was sure it was no good. The Zone said it was fine. Put it back and it worked twice. Then crapped out again. Hit it with a hammer and it starts right up. So, I ordered a new one.

When a place tests something it's in a controled enviornment. Just because it can crank air, doesn't mean it can crank a flywheel and eight pistons.

 

You stated that the security lamp is flashing. When the security lamp is flashing the PCM will not allow the engine to crank or start. The PCM will prevent the start relay and the fuel pump from operating, and will not pulse the injectors. You need to find out why the security lite is lit. Most likely there is nothing wrong with the engine or electricals, so don't waste time and money" fixing what ain't broke".

Theft Deterrent System, General Description (VATS)
The personal automotive security system (PASS-Key(R)) is standard equipment on the vehicle. The system is designed to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless an ignition key with a specific electrical resistance is used in the ignition cylinder.

There are 15 different ignition key resistance values. Of the 15 different resistance values or key codes available, only 1 will work with each Body Control Module (BCM) . Once the key code is programmed into the BCM, the code is stored in non-volatile memory.

The PASS-Key(R) system prevents the engine from starting by controlling the starter relay and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) fuel enable input. If the PCM does not sense the proper fuel enable signal, fuel will not be provided to the engine.

If the wrong resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will not ground the starter relay control circuit and will not provide the fuel enable signal for approximately 3 minutes . The engine is prevented from starting and discourages a thief from trying key codes or resistance values at random.

If the correct resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will ground the starter relay control circuit and will send a fuel enable signal to the PCM. The engine will start normally.

If the PASS-Key(R) system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will default to fail enable mode. Fail enable occurs when the proper key resistance is sensed before the open or short to ground occurs. Fail enable will illuminate the security indicator lamp and allow the operator to start the vehicle until the problem is corrected. There is no VTD protection in fail enable mode. The PASS-Key(R) system includes the following components:[*]Ignition key[*]Ignition cylinder[*]Body control module (BCM)[*]Starter relay[*]Powertrain control module (PCM)[*]SECURITY indicator
[ul][/ul]Body Control Module
The Body Control Module (BCM) contains the theft deterrent system logic. The BCM reads the key code from the ignition cylinder when the ignition is turned to the START position. If the code is correct, the BCM will enable the starter relay and will send a fuel enable signal to the PCM.

If the BCM receives the wrong code, the BCM will immediately go into tamper mode. The tamper mode will lock-out the vehicle starter and fuel injectors for 3 minutes . The SECURITY indicator will flash while the BCM is in tamper mode.

Ignition Cylinder

The ignition cylinder contains a set of electrical contacts used to measure the resistor in the ignition key. When the ignition key is inserted into the lock cylinder, the resistor in the key makes contact with the electrical contacts inside the ignition cylinder.

Ignition Key
The ignition key is a typical square ignition key blank with an imbedded resistor. The key blank and resistor are not serviceable separately. There are 15 different resistance values. The ignition key also has mechanical cuts similar to non-PASS-Key(R) ignition keys.

 

ok so, yesterday my car was working just fine, today i try to start to go to work and the security light comes on and the car wont start, that has happen to me alot not that often but alot of times, but i would usually let the light go off about 3-5 minutes and try the car again and it would start. today when the security light went off, i try starting the car and the security light just started blinking, and well the car just wont turn on, OK ONE THING I KNOW, is that from my starter, the ground wire is not fully like i would say good, one time i took the starter down and the ground cable broke off the started selenoid and i just put another ground wire attached to it, could this be a problem, i see that on wat pete posted it statest "If the PASS-Key(R) system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will default to fail enable mode." could this be?

 

ok. your lucky i just had ALL this happen to me lol. There is a relay inside ur steering column that activates the security module and sends the signal to the starter... Thats probably dead. Im not sure what its name is all i know is it cost me 400 bucks to replace (including labor). If you can do it yourself its about a 3 hour job.

 

and It looks just like a RElay, and it is inside the steering culumn which mean i have to kinda tear it down, the steering right? there seems to be no screw or anything that can be taken off to take the steering column apart.