Hi, I need to have my car painted due to the massive amount of pealing clr coat.(org factory paint)and will do all the prep work myself to save money.Is there a special way to strip the paint off the front qt panels as well as the front and rear . Is an orbit sander and hand sanding o.k.?

 

Use aircraft paint stripper.

 

You don't need to remove all of the paint. You only need to remove all of the peeling clear coat and scuff up the rest for adherence.

Are you going to be doing the painting yourself? If you are going to be taking it to someone, talk with them and see what they want your prep to consist of. If you talk with the painter ahead of time and work with them, you will end up with a much better paint job.

 

Aircraft stripper will work great on the rear qtrs and hood but DO NOT use it on the doors, fenders, decklid and wing or the roof. You WILL ruin the SMC and plastic fenders.

For the non metal parts you can use, for best results a sanding block and hand block the panels out. You dont have to remove all the paint just remove the layer that is peeling like Grandpa stated above. If it is just the clear then make sure you remove all the clear. if it is the color coat too then you need to bring the car down to the sealer.

Massey

 

As Masssey said, do not use stripper on plastic panels, unless you want to melt them. Also, make sure to use flexible clear coat on the plastic panels. The panels flex and if the paint does not, it will soon crack and peel.

 

thanks for the advice .Its all very helpful. I will not be doing the painting,I will leave that to a pro. As far as the clr coat, It is pealing all over.I'm afraid if I don't remove it all the new paint well peal in the future. I heard GM used a bad primer as well as a clr coat on these 94's. Ill get with a painter and get there impute as well. Ill keep this post up for now so if any one has other advice....thanks

 

IT was not that GM used poor products they didnt use the products correctly. Their paint systems were set up for the dispersion lacquer they used to spray and not the base/clear systems that the new cars went to. What happened is with the DL you must bake the car between stages but with BC/CC you dont. So the cars were sprayed, baked, sprayed, baked, sprayed, baked which hardened the under coats too hard and made it so the top coats would not adhear properly.

The proper method should have been:
Sealer... Flash dry
Color... flash dry
Clear... bake!

Unfortunatly it took about 2 or 3 years before this was noticed as a problem since it took that long for cars to start having problems.

and yes if you dont remove all of what is flaking off you will not get good adhearance of your new topcoats.

Massey