Hi my 1997 Chevy Camaro 3.8 v6 is not holding pressure at the rail . I replaced the pressure regulator with a new one and its not holding pressure . I get 41 lbs. of pressure with the car running . I have blocked off the return line and she still wont hold pressure there .Is there a internal check valve in the fuel pump assembly will the pressure bleed off that way . The fuel Pressure will drop to zero asap . The rail has too hold pressure for a hot start . The only second thing I can think of is a injector but I think it was a injector stuck open it wouldn't do that so fast .

 

Yes there is a check valve in the tank/pump assemble that is there to maintain fuel pressure and keep the line from emptying. I am surprised you don't you don't have the issue cold. When the engine is cold it needs more fuel to start and if your draining to zero pressure right away how does start in the morning right away? It still needs to build pressure.

Remember until you get this fixed you don't need to crank the car to build fuel pressure. Just cycle the key on once or twice then crank the motor. No need to wear out a starter. I drove my 96 for a year like that I just had to give the fuel pump one cycle.

 

No she has crank to start cold too I forgot . I just want too fix it and have it working right . Im thinking of changing the fuel pump and all the injectors with rebuilt ones .Also I don't smell fuel like in a leak you smell that **** right away outside the car .

 

No need to change injectors. If you want to get yours checked and cleaned, sure, But if an injector was leaking down you would have codes. That is a lot of raw fuel sitting in the intake. You would have a puff of black smoke every startup.

Do you know about the hatch method for replacing the fuel pump? If not search it on this site.

 

Yes too cut a access hole in the back of the car yes I do but don't have the cutout size for the hole .Second I need a good quality pump not that cheap AutoZone junk .I was thinking napa or a/c delco oem

 

https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...-method-63702/

Air tec pumps are crap, It took 3 for me till I got a decent one. 1st was loud second died on the interstate in less then 2 weeks. 3rd one did no start but when I pulled it I found the factory installed clamp came loose. That pump ended up lasting years. I think your best bet is to just replace the pump itself with a Walbro.

 

I used to own a 94 3.4L whose check valve quit working. Fuel pump was fine. I didn't want to perform hatch method so I installed a high quality check valve in the fuel line under the hood. Worked great! In the meantime you dont have to crank over and over, just turn the key to run (not start) 2 or 3 times to allow pressure to build, then start.