1999 no start problem
#12
I am sorry but I am not familiar with that year but sounds like a good place.
I honestly think your issue lies somewhere in the areas I have outlined because you have not mentioned anything else on the vehicle that is not working (not sure if you tried the radio, lights, windows... etc) and I think your power feed to your ignition switch is working because you would not be able to crank the car if it wasn't.
I honestly think your issue lies somewhere in the areas I have outlined because you have not mentioned anything else on the vehicle that is not working (not sure if you tried the radio, lights, windows... etc) and I think your power feed to your ignition switch is working because you would not be able to crank the car if it wasn't.
#13
looks like start and run are on different routes. man that start relay sure looks like it would be the problem. i have had starter switch only work when i let off on the key, car would not start untill i let go of key and it went to run.
#14
Just to be sure we are talking about the same reference place and because your readings seem oddly reversed (and impossible maybe), you are referring to the ground connection on the wheelhouse, not the terminal under the red plastic cover, correct? Both are "beside of" the fuse boxes.
#15
With the key in the off position I had 12 volts on both sides of the eng ctrl fuse, with the key on I had no volts at all. I checked the fuse and was good. I had 12 volts on #30 and 12 volts on #85 with the key on. I jumped #30 and #87 and heard relays engage, however the car would not fire, just turn over. I re-installed the relay and heard the same relays engage. I'm using the battery ground lug on the side of the fuse block. Any idea where else I should look?
#16
GaryDoug you are correct I was using the positive terminal as a ground. There was no red cap so I assumed it was a ground. So that does reverse all my readings. So it sounds like I do have 12 volts on my pink wire at the ICM. The original ICM one was burnt on two of the connections so while we were at the junk yard to get the plug we also got a used ICM. I'm going to run thru the test again and let everyone know the results
#19
So we have power at the ICM. Lets take a step back and grab a little more info.
What was the car doing or not doing? Was your son driving somewhere and then got stuck? Did the car show any symptoms of just dying on its own in the past? How did the car run up to this? Did your son go out in the morning and it just wouldn't start?
Do you have access to a diagnostic scanner to see if there are any codes present? I am going to assume that you replaced the ICM because you didn't have spark but were you able to confirm it was bad?
Fuel pressure at the rail does not mean the injectors are being pulsed. Have you checked all plugs to make sure not one is firing?
Another thing I would suggest is double check your connections on your new ICM harness. There are some overlap in colors that can be confused. The diagram I am looking at has a black with white stripe wire and a white with black stripe, there are 2 white wires and 1 white with a black stripe - there are a lot of similar colored wires that would be easy to cross. If the 2 white wires are crossed that would definitely cause a problem because the diagram I am looking at says 1 white is for the Tach and the other white wire is a control wire for the ECM to control the ICM (after 400RPMS are achieved).
Sorry to slam you with questions but just trying to help.
If you are 100% sure that the ICM is 100% right then the next thing I would move onto would be checking the crank position sensor.