1/4 Mile mods

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  #21  
Old 11-10-2017 | 04:03 PM
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Relating to rear axle gear change, any ratio higher than 3.73:1, the differential pinion assembly will need a bench grinder for eliminating a section of it to allow the assembly to go back into place because of the thick ring gear.
YouTube video will show.
PCM = Power Control Module, engine's & trans control computer.
Run lightweight oil as this lower viscosity uses less power to pump, more power for rear tires.
Reduce weight of Camaro, easier to push a lightweight car than a heavier one.
2K stall is good for stock camshaft.
 
  #22  
Old 11-13-2017 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandit777
I ordered this book yesterday. Unfortunately, I do not know anyone who can help me practically. I try to gather as much information as possible in order to make everything reasonable.
If you are a beginner and you have no one near you to help you then you should avoid NOS unless replacing your engine is not a big deal. Heat kills motors. Nitrous is Oxygen adding oxygen means leaning the fuel mixture, Lean = heat. adding liquid oxygen to an engine without a dyno tune and without pulling timing out of a STOCK motor is very risky. All the hardware I mentioned earlier is in case something goes wrong. The tune is what really protects the stock motor. One mistake and you will burn a hole in a piston which can render the engine un-repairable. This is even more probable with a aluminum engine. When you build an engine for Nitrous you use forged pistons that can handle almost 1000 degs more then you stock pistons and you change your ring gaps to handle higher temps and even the piston clearance is increased. Stock motors are not set up right for Nitrous. A budget Cam on the other had has almost no risk and can be mail ordered tunes.

Again just my opinion.
 
  #23  
Old 11-13-2017 | 10:49 AM
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turbo's are being used more and more and nos is on its way out for a reason. engines are not cheap to rebuild or replace. nos is also very hard on an auto trans. trans will need a build, probly 3k or more.
 
  #24  
Old 11-14-2017 | 11:24 PM
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Jump to the 8 minute mark, They talk about pulling timing and a little later they talk about the kits fuel jets needing to be larger. How will you handle all of that is you don't have a tuner that knows what they are doing and has the equipment to test it?

 
  #25  
Old 11-15-2017 | 11:43 AM
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Nice video .yes people are moveing to the turbo,over nitrous but they both have issues then they move back to nitro,bottom line. is it cost big money to race a car 10 times a year or more ,heck one time can do you in ,so its for those that can afford it ,or that like to spend money they dont have ,like said i have had friends that have re morgage the house to keep raceing an then some

It can be an addiction for some an a bad thing ,i have seen it wreck relationships too ,better off to get in the local derby races is cheaper for the most part.been looking at ls1 cars,as i am selling my 406 after 10+ years with the car,ran into a 2000 C4 with 46k miles $8700.00,could not be worse time with the weather changes ,hope to find a deal like this gain towards the spring
 

Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 11-17-2017 at 12:34 PM.
  #26  
Old 11-15-2017 | 12:31 PM
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What is a 200 C4?
 
  #27  
Old 11-15-2017 | 12:42 PM
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At what performance is this damage to be expected? The system I have, brings with the nozzle according to the manufacturer 100 hp. Can damage happen so quickly?
 
  #28  
Old 11-15-2017 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandit777
At what performance is this damage to be expected? The system I have, brings with the nozzle according to the manufacturer 100 hp. Can damage happen so quickly?
How quick? Seconds if you don't have the right fuel flow. The normal way to do nitrous right is to back the timing way off and add a lot of fuel. Then from there slowly remove fuel and add timing. Your knock sensor will warn you as well as your O2 sensor as you approach the danger zone. If you just install a system and your running lean and full stock timing you can fry a pistons in just a few strokes. In race cars guys talk about burning out plug on nitrous but that is with forged pistons and huge ring gaps. the top of the piston is your weak point.

This is how touchy it can be, With a build non-nitrous motor is you fuel filter starts to plug you will lose HP. In a Nitrous car it will cost you an engine. Like I said you can do nitrous safely but one of those sniper kits will not have everything you need.

Keep in mind that the guy in the above video owns a race shop. He is installing a 100 hp kit, You can tell by the video he is working his way up to the 100 hp and he is not happy with the parts he has and this is a LS1 motor. This is the kind of guy you want tuning your kit. Also the owner of this car has a 2017 Corvette and a Mclaren, if he blew the motor he would laugh and order another one.
 

Last edited by Gorn; 11-15-2017 at 03:10 PM.
  #29  
Old 11-17-2017 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn
What is a 200 C4?
2000 c4 the ls1 engine has value of like 11k still 345hp lighter then a camaro 100% stock corvett,its also best to have forged parts in nitro engine ,the ls1 can handle some like said tuned right by a guy knows what he is doing,i now know i would not throw my nitrous kit at anything more then something i want to burn up over time ,couse even with a great tune over time it will get the older gaskets if your lucky ,if not worse, 50 to 75hp is as far as i would go , remember your car is how old now

the seals are getting older too,most guys do it with brand new engine,or with something they dont mind rebuilding,have the kit intsalled an watch the kicks giggles you will get alone when people see the engine is bottle fed,with mine priceless thought was never used ,wel worth what i payed for it for that alone
 

Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 11-17-2017 at 01:03 PM.
  #30  
Old 11-17-2017 | 01:01 PM
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Just to keep the facts straight. The C4 Corvette was built 1984-1996 and the C5 was built 1997-2004. (97 being the first LS1) The above car is a 1998 C5 that cost $8000 plus the trade of a C4 with a blown motor and a broke trans. He is local to me so I watch his stuff.

An LS1 in a Vet and and an LS1 in the camaro are the same engine. The only differences is the bolt on stuff. Most of the HP rating difference is because of marketing. If you research stock LS1 dyno pulls you will find many 100% stock automatic camaro's dyno at or around 300hp at the wheels with manuals hitting 315-320. That means the real at crank HP of a LS1 camaro is closer to 340hp then it is to the advertised 305. I am pretty sure if you ask anyone who has driven a Lt1 and LS1 there is way more then a 20 HP increase going LT1 to LS1, myself included.

A quick google search found a thread in a the corvette site arguing the corvette engine was better, Someone started posting GM part numbers and they are the same. Heads , pistons, rods intake even Camshafts have the same part numbers. The Vet does have true dual exhaust but it is DBW. I can add duals to my camaro good luck getting rid of DBW. LOL
 

Last edited by Gorn; 11-17-2017 at 01:08 PM.


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