1/4 Mile mods
\not that important. If it costs a lot, I'll wait until I can buy it. Better wait and then be reasonable. It is important to me that the car is well set up. My goal is 11 - 12 seconds.
I once read that if you have original 2.73 ratio, a conversion to 4.11 is not possible with the 2.73 diff. Is that correct ?
which is the right one?
10 bolt 7.5 or 10 bolt 7.6?.
I once read that if you have original 2.73 ratio, a conversion to 4.11 is not possible with the 2.73 diff. Is that correct ?
which is the right one?
10 bolt 7.5 or 10 bolt 7.6?.
4.11 is nice for drag racing, if you still drive on the street care about fuel mileage, 3.73 is a good upgrade.
Stall will depend on what camshaft you go with. If you install any higher stall, make sure to add an auxiliary cooler to the trans in line with the factory cooler. Higher stall creates more heat.
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ok with carrier do you mean the differential? But I've seen at carid that there is a ring and pinion set for 3.08 and down gear ratio with 3.73 and 4.10 ratio. That would have to fit then with original carrier or not?
@ Gorn : What are the safety features for the nitro system you talked about? What do I need to pay attention for. What should I install?
@ Gorn : What are the safety features for the nitro system you talked about? What do I need to pay attention for. What should I install?
Examples, things most kits don't have.
Rev limiter (if you trans slips out of gear or breaks the NO2 will over rev the motor.)
Backup shut off solenoid, If the primary shut off solenoid fails your engine will fill with NO2 and when you try to start it, boom your intake and hood end up 20 meters away.
Fuel pressure safety switch. This switch will shut of the NO2 if the Fuel pressure drops. You don't want a failing fuel pump to cost you the whole engine.
Back Fire detection/shut off. NO2 back fires are common. Last thing you want is to inject liquid oxygen into a fire in your intake.
The reason I asked about budget would be if this is a daily driver you want to be sure that you are prepared for what could happen. With older cars I used to use the 20% rule. You can increase HP about 20% before worrying about the trans or rear. I do not believe this is true with the LS1 4th gen Camaro/Firebird. The engines can easily 375-85 wheel HP with light mods. With good tires you will have a very limited life for both the trans and rear. YES you can find some people who have have these hold up but for every one person that did not have the rear or trans fail at 400 hp I can find you 3 people that broke them with just good tires on a stock engine. Keep in mind the changing gears does not make the rear stronger.
I had a friend that raced his daily driver. It was a Transam LS1 6 speed. He had $4000 in bolton parts including NO2 and a cam with worked heads. It blew it at over 5000 RPMs. At that RPM it wiped out the engine and trans, neither where repairable. That was back when a LS1/ 6 speed used cost $8,000 and the car itself was worth $18,000. That is racing. You can see it almost every day and every race track. If you are serous about running NO2 you should have a trailer/tow vehicle just in case.
Last edited by Gorn; Nov 4, 2017 at 10:52 AM.
if you get your heads ported An polished ,get bigger injectors ,an get some straight pipes on the car an a good tune can add near 100hp to your ls1 , an run smaller tires front bigger in the back staggered say you will notice a big difference
no need for the 12 bolt rear unless your going over 600hp to the wheels the 10 bolt can be built to handle 550hp wheels ,go 3.42 ,Build a rear end for like $500.00 over 3k for the 12 bolt,an put the $2500.00 into the other things said,so instead of 5 to 6 k you can add 100hp for like 3k or less if you do your own work may save more,i have thrown over 400lbs torq an more to my stock 10 bolt still holding up well ,
no need for the 12 bolt rear unless your going over 600hp to the wheels the 10 bolt can be built to handle 550hp wheels ,go 3.42 ,Build a rear end for like $500.00 over 3k for the 12 bolt,an put the $2500.00 into the other things said,so instead of 5 to 6 k you can add 100hp for like 3k or less if you do your own work may save more,i have thrown over 400lbs torq an more to my stock 10 bolt still holding up well ,
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; Nov 5, 2017 at 11:37 AM.
Sure, the 10 bolt can be built to handle the power, but at the end of the day, it's still a 7.5 10 bolt and it will break. Not a matter of "if" but "when". If these cars had come with the 8.5/8.6 10 bolt, then it'd be worth building up to handle abuse because those rears can take it. Like Gorn said, for every 1 person who has a rear that survives, you can find 3 who built it and broke it. There are stock LS cars that have broke them. Auto's are much easier than the sticks, but I have seen a few auto LS cars break them too.
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Not sure how to make you understand this. This is not something someone types in a post. Might as well ask how do I build a race car. I really don't think anyone wants to type out 100+ pages of info in a thread. After you spend 20 hours or so researching it you should still find someone with real world experience. Nitrous can be safe, it can also turn a new engine into scrap in seconds.
https://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/how...xoCEJ4QAvD_BwE
Or you can search Google for building a safe Nitrous system and start reading.
https://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/how...xoCEJ4QAvD_BwE
Or you can search Google for building a safe Nitrous system and start reading.
Last edited by Gorn; Nov 7, 2017 at 12:37 PM.
Nitrous is the best way to get fast Hp ,but like said if you race plan on breaking things,you can get a set up for like $500.00 then like 300.00 to install,i got mine in the day for $350.00 ,75 to 100hp is as far as i would go there
though one can get the selonoid for up to 250hp for my kit,bottom line raceing cost money ,heck just playing around can cost money like smoking the tires 1 out of 10 guys break something while doing a burn out,one needs deep pockets to race a car ,there for this back street race guy a few years back ,is going back to a stock car,me i like to make them look racey ,but dont want to race anymore, its too exspencive ,an gives one alot of head aches,if you got money pay some one to help you ,if you dont then have a little fun that will fade after it cost you enough money,some guys have to race there house away there childs collage money so on ,if its in the blood time tells that too,
Best bet is to go to your local modified track ,get some pit time to talk to guys that race ,an get in with crew of people that do it ,our local track one can get pit pass for like $300.00 for the season ,an or $60.00 per race night ,so if you live up north spring time if you dont then ,got to you local track an hang out ,that will beat any book ,but with the book should help a ton ,good luck with it
though one can get the selonoid for up to 250hp for my kit,bottom line raceing cost money ,heck just playing around can cost money like smoking the tires 1 out of 10 guys break something while doing a burn out,one needs deep pockets to race a car ,there for this back street race guy a few years back ,is going back to a stock car,me i like to make them look racey ,but dont want to race anymore, its too exspencive ,an gives one alot of head aches,if you got money pay some one to help you ,if you dont then have a little fun that will fade after it cost you enough money,some guys have to race there house away there childs collage money so on ,if its in the blood time tells that too,
Best bet is to go to your local modified track ,get some pit time to talk to guys that race ,an get in with crew of people that do it ,our local track one can get pit pass for like $300.00 for the season ,an or $60.00 per race night ,so if you live up north spring time if you dont then ,got to you local track an hang out ,that will beat any book ,but with the book should help a ton ,good luck with it
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; Nov 7, 2017 at 06:14 PM.


