20K miles, has worked very well. Sometimes, won't start, but always cranks.
This is what I found:
1. Ambient temperature makes no difference - summer or winter, morning or afternoon heat soak of interior.
2. Changed fuel pump relay, no run.
3. Remove relay, insert ammeter, pumps runs, draws 6-7 amps, always starts after this exercise.
4. Always hear the f/pump run for a few seconds after going to IGN from OFF, several attempts - every time ign switch turned from OFF to IGN.


Questions:
1. Ign switch power to PCM for commanding f/pump on - true?
2. Is there f/pump relay command/power in START?
3. Is fuel pressure suppose to remain, say overnight, from last time running?


Very annoying. Thank you for your ideas and answers

 

Forgot to ask - is there a check valve for holding pressure - read Ques #3?
Where is it? Part of f/pump?

 

3 yes its part of the pump.
if memory serves, fuel pump goes on when crank or cam sensor says the engine is turning. dont know if a certain speed is needed. also not sure if bcm or pcm tells pump to come on. what is fuel pressure doing when it wont start? have you tried a noid light to see if injectors are being told to fire? are you getting spark when it won't run?

 

Are you sure you are losing fuel pressure? it seem to be your focus.

 

Gentlemen, thank you for your answers.
It would make sense having the check valve as part of the pump.
The Haynes manual shows relay command power from PCM.
I do not know if pressure is present after the first attempt as I am by myself and no gauge, yet.
I will check the same tomorrow AM in seeing if pressure is still present from overnight and answer my own question by opening the Schrader valve.


Generally, it seems if I were to 'touch' the START position, engine is running.

 

mine will lose most of its pressure overnight. it does not drop right away.

 

sounds more like a ignition control module. just my first thought. lol i dont even know if the 02 has one.

 

This AM check: ran 24 hours ago
1. Popped Schrader valve and fuel came out
2. Ign switch from OFF to IGN twice and f/pump hummed.
3. Started right up.


Doing a running fault list here for retention - over 40 thing.

 

I drove a car for years with a bad check valve. I just cycled the key on and off 3 times they cranked it in the morning. That allows pressure to build and it was good for the rest of the day.

Normally step one is to figure what is missing when you have a no start.

Just seeing pressure is not good enough, the tank can act like it is sealed and it will build pressure. That pressure will feed through the pump. Also low pressure will cause a no start also.
Fuel Injection Pump Tester


They use to sell these as individuals for $5 ea. You can also pick them up at the local parts store. DO NOT use a tests or a volt meter with an unknown impedance. Some voltmeters and all test light will draw too much power and can fry your system
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piec...set-97959.html


You can see the spark it will also add some resistance to emulate compression.
Inline Ignition Spark Checker

If you have fuel pressure, signal to the injector and spark to the plug something should happen, a back fire or a stumble.

All these tool may be on a tool loan program at your local chain parts store.

 

Thank you, Gorn, for the suggestions and I agree, finding out what component is missing is the key.