Oh, you don't scare me. Besides, I know some low people in high places. Or maybe that's high people in low places! Good luck finding a mod who gives a crap anyway. Lol

 

There you go busting *****, brass ones at that LOL.

 

There are a few option better than the 305. A 350 with a good set of heads would be your best bet. If your sticking with the computer then you need to change the setting OR dump the computer and do a 350 with the 395 roller cam or another favorit is the Hot Cam and a set of vortec heads and a carb and your makeing a easy 350HP and 400TQ just like GM does with there 350 ram jet motor more if your using the Hot Cam.

 

In addition to the above, all you need is a checkbook with a big balance. like $5000 +++++

 

Deeper pockets than I have.

 

Not really, mabe if your buying a GM crate motor. I have done these for $1100-$1300 depending on the cam, roller or flat tapped. I really like doing the roller cam set up. I had one guy in Milwaukee dyno one in his camro and it did 346HP at the rear wheels. That comes out to 415-420HP at the crank. It was a tad more with the roller rockers and some porting of the vortec heads. The set up depends on the tranney, converter and the final gear in the vehical.

 

$1100-$1300 is if you have the motor already right? How about the machine work.

 

this crap right here 69... this is why ricers talk .... people like you perpetuate this stuff... smh... they dont even sell vtek there... lol

 

You can pick up the vortec cores rather cheap. These are the motor used in the GM trucks and bubs from 1996-2001. There rather plentyfull if you look on crags list or just ask around. The casting is a 880 and will have 5.7 on the block behind the oil filter. DO NOT GET A 305 motor or one with the 5.0 listed on the block. If you have a runner then take the block apart and KEEP EVERYTHING except the bearing and the rings and timing chain. You might need to have the block sent out to be cleaned and cam bearing installed unless you can do it your self. Barrel hone the cylinders because there is very little or no taper in the cylinders because of the vortec ring package. Assemble the short block using the factory piston (clean the ring lands for sure) if the crank is in good shape just polish the juornals and clean and reuse the oil pump and get the cam of your choice. For the heads if your using a cam with more then .480 lift then you need to machine the spring pockets and cut down and install new valve seals. I like using the Z-28 valve springs that are good to .525 lift. With the Hot Cam and 1.6 rockers your right at the limit of the spring. I really like using the the GM 383 (look up part number if intrested) cam if your reusing the stock springs on the heads. If your doing that then just a set of replacement valve seals can be used. The flat tapped cam of choice with no head work is the Comp. EX-268 in a flat tapped. If you do go the flat tapped route be sure to use a oil of 15w40 rated for a diesel because you need the ZINK to keep the cam from getting flat spots. This might come as a shock to some people but you should be able to do this motor for under $500 if you look around and for the parts and do the cleaning and prep work your self. The only thing you need to buy for the motor is rings, rod, mains, cam bearing and a timing chain. If the motor is not driping oil out of the front or real seal then reuse them and the pan gasket with some sealer for good seal. The front cover is plastic and you only need to plug the hole with something unless you have the crank trigger plug that came with it. I always say half the fun is in the hunt. Use the specks for any 350 chevy and your set.

 

All of the above just requires more money....HORSEPOWER = MONEY.