Help! Camaro z28 at stake!
#11
03-11-2010, 08:01 AM
I could agree with that if you are selling it because you need the money and its a daily driver, but just because a transmission is slipping is no reason to give up and probobly take a big loss. Transmissions can wear out, and the fact two weren't right back to back tells me something else is going on whether its TV cable or bad installation the problem is fixable and probobly cheap too.
As for over heating, how do you know? Sending units go bad and dash gauges can read innaccurately. Using only those is no way to actually know what your motors running temp is. A new sending unit is dirt cheap.
Plus the 305/350 of that era was designed to run warmer for emission purposes. That thing is just fine at 200+ degrees.
As for over heating, how do you know? Sending units go bad and dash gauges can read innaccurately. Using only those is no way to actually know what your motors running temp is. A new sending unit is dirt cheap.
Plus the 305/350 of that era was designed to run warmer for emission purposes. That thing is just fine at 200+ degrees.
#12
03-12-2010, 02:14 PM
I could agree with that if you are selling it because you need the money and its a daily driver, but just because a transmission is slipping is no reason to give up and probobly take a big loss. Transmissions can wear out, and the fact two weren't right back to back tells me something else is going on whether its TV cable or bad installation the problem is fixable and probobly cheap too.
As for over heating, how do you know? Sending units go bad and dash gauges can read innaccurately. Using only those is no way to actually know what your motors running temp is. A new sending unit is dirt cheap.
Plus the 305/350 of that era was designed to run warmer for emission purposes. That thing is just fine at 200+ degrees.
As for over heating, how do you know? Sending units go bad and dash gauges can read innaccurately. Using only those is no way to actually know what your motors running temp is. A new sending unit is dirt cheap.
Plus the 305/350 of that era was designed to run warmer for emission purposes. That thing is just fine at 200+ degrees.
#13
03-15-2010, 05:04 PM
Anyone Have anything else i could try? The Passenger fan only works,Ive tooken on the thermostat becuase the one it had was not dirty so we wanted some more air flow,I also changed the oxygen sensor,when i drive it downhill and begin to press the brake the car will turn off, Can someone help me out i really dont want to sell this car
#14
03-15-2010, 07:48 PM
one fan will turn on with the a/c, and the other will turn on to cool. both will come one once its over 245 degrees. the engine shutting is a bad iac valve. its in the throttle body. take it out and clean it, it may help. if not, replace it. make sure you have a thermostat in the car. running it without one will damage the engine even more. if you suspect a head gasket, are you getting any small bubbles smelling of exhaust or gas in the rad? and white smoke out of the tail pipe?
for the fans, you can rewire them to be turned on and off by you. the factory fans dont move much air though. my car would overheat with a high performance rad and the factory twin fans. i upgraded to a single 1200 cfm fan and it would stay under 200 with the a/c on during a 90 degree day in traffic.
for the fans, you can rewire them to be turned on and off by you. the factory fans dont move much air though. my car would overheat with a high performance rad and the factory twin fans. i upgraded to a single 1200 cfm fan and it would stay under 200 with the a/c on during a 90 degree day in traffic.
